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Power to Waste
5.8,
Trad, 150 ft (45 m),
Avg: 2.3 from 31
votes
FA: Matt & Mark Hermann, Derek Willmore, Mandy Kellner
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (14) First Cree…
> Lotta Balls Wall
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
The left side of the Lotta Balls Wall is dominated by a huge fin of rock. This route climbs straight up the fin to a bolted rappel station beneath the jutting overhang. A single rope is sufficient for the rappel if you go down the east-facing wall (instead of straight down the route). The route starts with easy face climbing on excellent rock. When you reach the corner halfway up, the rock quality begins to decline, and care is needed as you approach the belay.
Protection
6 bolts, small cams
![Looking down from anchors]()
[Hide Photo] Looking down from anchors
![Photo of the route with permission from Silvia Bakovic. Note the 2 climbers starting P2 of Lotta Balls in the background]()
[Hide Photo] Photo of the route with permission from Silvia Bakovic. Note the 2 climbers starting P2 of Lotta Balls in the background
![Power to Waste, on the left side of the Lotta Balls Wall.]()
[Hide Photo] Power to Waste, on the left side of the Lotta Balls Wall.
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I thought the climbing was really enjoyable.
Just take gear to protect between the bolts and you won't be worrying about the slightly flaky nature of the rock.
How about a second pitch ?
Sure looks like there should be stellar climbing up that nose out the left side of the belay. Oct 31, 2008
Las Vegas
Yeah, as mentioned above... looks like a second pitch could be added for sure. Nov 2, 2016
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Santa Fe
Wrong! Not from the base of the route it doesn't, at least not from the same base level as Lotta Balls just to the right.
The only way a single 70 works is if both leader and belayer are starting from the ledge at the first bolt on the route, which is a 20+ foot 4th class scramble up from the base level. But that does actually work pretty well; after the climb then either head left for the standard Lotta Balls descent or downclimb 4th class straight back down to the base. Oct 22, 2018