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Routes in Lotta Balls Wall

Beer Run T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Magic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Borderline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bruja's Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cougar Boy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dodgeball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freaker's Ball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Kick in the Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost Marbles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Lotta Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lotta Brews T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Power to Waste T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trihardral 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Voodoo Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Todd Swain & Debbie Benchley 1991
Page Views: 3,853 total, 24/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is an excellent route. Some of the easier climbing is a bit runout, but the hard stuff is reasonably protected. Apparently, "bruja" is Spanish for witch (for those of you without your foreign language dictionaries...)

The climb starts immediately right of Lotta Balls, where a small left-facing corner leads up to a roof.

Pitch 1: Climb up to the roof, traverse right, pass a protection bolt, then climb up and right on easier face-climbing to a bolted belay position. The stance is right on top of a tiny, white, left-facing corner.

Pitch 2: Continue straight up via moderate face-climbing. Set up a belay on gear 30 or 40 feet below the giant overhang. Protection on this pitch is limited.

Pitch 3: Climb up to the overhang near its right end. Follow an improbable ramp a long way to the left (5.6) over soft and fragile rock. When the climbing becomes easy, go straight up to a belay at a small bush.

Pitch 4: Easy climbing goes up a low-angle crack to the top.

Descend left with a couple of short rappels.

Protection

standard rack
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
1st pitch is superb and you can just barely rap to the block at the base of Black Magic with a 70m rope. Nov 2, 2015
Climbed today and I think the p3 bolt is gone? Or we couldn't find it Mar 29, 2015
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.9
I think this route is better than Lotta Balls with 1/10 the traffic. A great option when the other two popular routes are busy. Do not belay at Lotta Balls first belay if you want to stay on an independent line and do the whole route - just continue up right of that line to the great two bolt belay on a ledge a bit farther up. From there climb straight up the fantastic varnished face and either make your own belay or better yet clip into the Black Magic belay. Next go straight over the bulge, traverse HALF way under the big roof and climb directly over the roof at the obvious crack (5.8 or 5.9 - easier than the first pitch moves), clip the bolt at the lip and then move up and right to a great belay in an alcove with a bush. Apr 18, 2014
twellman
Cambridge
  5.9
twellman   Cambridge
  5.9
I though this route was easily as good as Lotta Balls and Black Magic. Great variety on the first pitch (don't miss the bolt around the corner once the Lotta Balls anchor is in sight), spicy second pitch, WILD but easy 3rd pitch, and fun easy corner to finish. Overall a great route with some spicy easier climbing but good pro for the hard parts. Apr 1, 2014
Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
 
Tom Fralich   Fort Collins, CO
 
I also found P2 to be somewhat spicy. I traversed to the Black Magic anchor at the end of the pitch...seemed like a better stance and let the rope run more smoothly on the traverse of P3. P1 is excellent and worth doing on its own (double-rope rap from bolts). Mar 26, 2013
Felt the crux of P-2 was a bit spicy- stepping on small balls, thoughtful pro, and delicate climbing up a thin seam- 5.6??? Really??? Rock was solid at least, and it was pretty fun, and eased up nicely after the crux.

Edit to add: Pitch 4 is mostly 4th class to easy low 5th class, but fun! I only placed a couple of pieces just to keep the rope out of the crack. Only took about 5-7 minutes to top out on this pitch- a very stress free pitch. Sep 5, 2012
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Nice route, first pitch can easily be TR'd using the Lotta Balls anchor.

Although it takes excellent pro, the placement of low pro below the roof move (to avoid drag) would provide for a pretty scary fall should you peel out and clang into the corner. Nov 1, 2008
john durr
Joshua Tree, CA
 
john durr   Joshua Tree, CA
 
The route description above has the first pitch ending at Lota Balls first belay, better to find the second bolt out right and do the second very nice crux as mentioned in Guy's comment post. Oct 23, 2007
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
The first pitch on this route is beautiful. After the face climbing near the first bolt, angle up and right to the varnished wall around the corner. There will be a bolt below a great thin crack in a black varnished wall.

Be careful not to place gear under the roof or you will have bad rope drag. I would suggest back cleaning the gear after placing a blue alien at the end of the roof traverse. Oct 29, 2006