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Routes in Lotta Balls Wall
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Beer Run T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Black Magic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Borderline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Bruja's Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cougar Boy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dodgeball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Freaker's Ball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Kick in the Balls T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lost Marbles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Lotta Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lotta Brews T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Power to Waste T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trihardral 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Voodoo Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Todd Swain & Debbie Benchley 1991 |
| Page Views: | 5,752 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This is an excellent route. Some of the easier climbing is a bit runout, but the hard stuff is reasonably protected. Apparently, "bruja" is Spanish for witch (for those of you without your foreign language dictionaries...)
The climb starts immediately right of Lotta Balls, where a small left-facing corner leads up to a roof.
Pitch 1: Climb up to the roof, traverse right, pass a protection bolt, then climb up and right on easier face-climbing to a bolted belay position. The stance is right on top of a tiny, white, left-facing corner.
Pitch 2: Continue straight up via moderate face-climbing. Set up a belay on gear 30 or 40 feet below the giant overhang. Protection on this pitch is limited.
Pitch 3: Climb up to the overhang near its right end. Follow an improbable ramp a long way to the left (5.6) over soft and fragile rock. When the climbing becomes easy, go straight up to a belay at a small bush.
Pitch 4: Easy climbing goes up a low-angle crack to the top.
Descend left with a couple of short rappels.
The climb starts immediately right of Lotta Balls, where a small left-facing corner leads up to a roof.
Pitch 1: Climb up to the roof, traverse right, pass a protection bolt, then climb up and right on easier face-climbing to a bolted belay position. The stance is right on top of a tiny, white, left-facing corner.
Pitch 2: Continue straight up via moderate face-climbing. Set up a belay on gear 30 or 40 feet below the giant overhang. Protection on this pitch is limited.
Pitch 3: Climb up to the overhang near its right end. Follow an improbable ramp a long way to the left (5.6) over soft and fragile rock. When the climbing becomes easy, go straight up to a belay at a small bush.
Pitch 4: Easy climbing goes up a low-angle crack to the top.
Descend left with a couple of short rappels.
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