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Routes in Lotta Balls Wall

Beer Run T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Magic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Borderline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bruja's Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cougar Boy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dodgeball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freaker's Ball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Kick in the Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost Marbles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Lotta Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lotta Brews T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Power to Waste T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trihardral 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Voodoo Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Andrew Gomoll, Sandra Horna, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 509 total, 4/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Jun 4, 2008
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

From the start of Dodgeball, scramble up a hundred or two feet of third class to a belay at the base of the main corner. Rope up here. The corner immediately becomes an interesting, smooth squeeze chimney. Shortly above the chimney, the main corner branches, with a smaller, subsidiary corner splitting off to the left. Pull over a small bulge and climb the left-facing corner to a small stance at its top.

Continue up the corner system with much questionable rock. Above a short offwidth section, the crack ends beneath a towering fin of rock. The faint of heart or strong of mind might take this opportunity to step right and continue up the right-facing corner near the top of Dodgeball. The alternative is face climbing directly above on the runout slab. This would be a thought-provoking lead even if the rock were solid and the lichen absent. In light of the actual conditions, the lead is positively engrossing. Above the fin, climb up and right on easy terrain to the top of the buttress. Descend as for Dodgeball.

Location

This route is up and left from the main Lotta Balls Wall, on the left side of the buttress with Kick in the Balls and Dodgeball.

Protection

Std rack, plus nerves of steel

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