Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Unknown; 1970s
Page Views: 5,231 total · 29/month
Shared By: John Hegyes on Aug 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


This climb goes up the left side of the steep, rectangular patch of black rock in the Romper Room Area. Finger cracks, varnished plates and large jug holds bring you to the top. Well protected. Rappel from a two bolt anchor with one 60m rope. This is a good climb for the beginner leader.


Standard rack


Decatur, GA
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
This is a fun lead, more interesting to me than the more popular Romper Room to the right. Don't think I'd call it a good beginner lead, though; some sections didn't seem 5.6-easy to me.

JL Apr 7, 2008
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Agreed - not really a good opener for a first 5.6 trad lead. As of 4/17/10 there's a jammed cam about 20 feet up, left very recently it seemed, either same day, or day before. Apr 18, 2010
Ty Gittins
Ty Gittins   bozeman
Doobie dance was my first trad lead. Near the top I remember threading my largest nut through two holes in a bomber flake! Jan 25, 2011
Oct 29, 2012
Did this last Friday; agree with a couple of the previous comments. Some sections seemed a little harder than 5.6ish --- I would not recommend this as a first trad lead. Oct 29, 2012
Franz N
Franz N   Mass.
There is a pretty cool finger crack 2/3 the way up, which could make the climb tougher if you have big hands. Otherwise, lots of foot placements. Mar 5, 2013
Karla Lipp
Karla Lipp   Boulder
Good Red Rocks test piece for those who are already solid 5.6 leaders. Long and sustained climbing, takes good gear. Nov 27, 2013
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
Did this the other day finally (I can't believe I've never been to this cliff)- super fun climb that protects really well.

I'd definitely recommend this for a newer leader so long as they had a solid selection of gear. One or two 5.6 moves on it and the rest is a cruise. Oct 26, 2015
MariaZ Zimmerman
San Diego, CA
MariaZ Zimmerman   San Diego, CA
I'm calling it a 5.7 because it seemed sketchier than Romper Room right next to it. Jul 17, 2017
michelle w
las vegas, nv
michelle w   las vegas, nv
This route eats small cams, .75 and smaller and a lot of stoppers. Nov 19, 2018
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
I thought this route was harder than the route to climber's right. Also, be careful placing nuts; I nearly got one stuck due to the grabby nature of the rock (wasn't used to it yet). Pretty fun though. Apr 7, 2019