Type: Trad, 600 ft, 3 pitches
FA: John Martinet, Jeff Gordon 1978
Page Views: 8,125 total · 50/month
Shared By: Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi? on Feb 10, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This route is the last one on the climber's right on the square, black-varnished wall which houses the routes Doobie Dance and Romper Room.

Pitch 1- Crux pitch. Climb the left-facing corner/crack, pulling a small overhang onto a ledge with a large bush. Scramble up to the next large bush on another ledge.

Pitch 2- Climb the low-angle crack system to a belay stance in a left-facing corner.

Pitch 3- Head up the easy crack/varnished face to a large ledge.

Pitch 4- A pitch worth of fourth class. Those that are not comfortable with 4th-class terrain may want to rope up.

Descent:
WARNING: THE OLD GUIDEBOOKS ARE WRONG! Do not descend via Lotta Balls descent gully. It is long, indirect, brushy, and involves tricky ropework. THE BEST WAY TO DESCEND is to move right (west) from the top of the climb and scramble down a gully (3rd class on its west side) to a ledge with a small pine tree and rap station. Two straightforward, single-rope rappels (60m works) and a little downclimbing take you to the base of the wall just east of Rising Moons.

Re: Pitch 1
There is a rap anchor, one bolt and natural pro at the first ledge with a bush, if you choose to do only the first worthy pitch. You will need two ropes to rap. Also... you may want to bring some webbing to back up the ratty ones if you plan on rapping from pitch 1.

Protection

Standard rack to 4". Plenty of long runners.

Photos