Algae on Parade
Avg: 2.4 from 39 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||John Martinet, Jeff Gordon 1978|
|Page Views:||7,309 total · 50/month|
|Shared By:||Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi? on Feb 10, 2006|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis route is the last one on the climber's right on the square, black-varnished wall which houses the routes Doobie Dance and Romper Room.
Pitch 1- Crux pitch. Climb the left-facing corner/crack, pulling a small overhang onto a ledge with a large bush. Scramble up to the next large bush on another ledge.
Pitch 2- Climb the low-angle crack system to a belay stance in a left-facing corner.
Pitch 3- Head up the easy crack/varnished face to a large ledge.
Pitch 4- A pitch worth of fourth class. Those that are not comfortable with 4th-class terrain may want to rope up.
WARNING: THE OLD GUIDEBOOKS ARE WRONG! Do not descend via Lotta Balls descent gully. It is long, indirect, brushy, and involves tricky ropework. THE BEST WAY TO DESCEND is to move right (west) from the top of the climb and scramble down a gully (3rd class on its west side) to a ledge with a small pine tree and rap station. Two straightforward, single-rope rappels (60m works) and a little downclimbing take you to the base of the wall just east of Rising Moons.
Re: Pitch 1
There is a rap anchor, one bolt and natural pro at the first ledge with a bush, if you choose to do only the first worthy pitch. You will need two ropes to rap. Also... you may want to bring some webbing to back up the ratty ones if you plan on rapping from pitch 1.