Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Romper Room

Algae on Parade T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Buzz Buzz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doobie Dance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Frank's Right Foot Stinks TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Girls and Buoys T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guise and Gals T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hall of Mirrors T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Kindergarten Cop T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magic Mirror T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Romper Room T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: not sure
Page Views: 2,233 total · 13/month
Shared By: tom silvestrini on Mar 12, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

51 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


It starts about 20 feet left of the black Romper Room face, in an large, obvious low angle corner with a big flat belay area. Start to the left of the 10' high triangular pillar, then layback up the rounded crack in the right facing corner.


Small to medium pro. Newer two bolt anchor with slings and rings, visible from the start.


Salt Lake City, Utah
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
Surprisingly really good super mellow route! Great for a warm up to some of the other routes in the area on Lotta Balls wall or Alcohol Wall! Takes pretty good gear too! Nov 17, 2006
Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
Route is hard for 5.4. The crux is a wide section near the top where the face holds diminish. Possibly traffic has worn some down?

A #4 Friend is useful if you happen to have one. Mar 16, 2009
Saw an epic on this one this weekend. Not a good lead for inexperienced climbers. Apr 24, 2012
Mark Wright
Minneapolis, MN
Mark Wright   Minneapolis, MN
This route is best avoided if you're looking for an easy route to warm up on in this area. I'm an experienced trad leader, and fell this weekend (5/1/12) because of a foot popping off the very sandy right face of the dihedral along the upper crack. The rock on this route has very little patina or varnish on it, so it is very sandy and soft. The small face holds in the face along the wide crack above the last ledge are very worn, and the rock quality is such that the shoe rubber does not stick well when smearing. So I climbed it like an off width crack, not trusting my feet on the face. We climbed several other routes in the Romper Room, rated 5.5-5.7 (they were quite good!), and this route was harder than any of those. In my opinion, it's definitely not a 5.4, and definitely not a route for a beginner lead climber. May 2, 2012
Franz N
Franz N   Mass.
Apparently this route sees a lot of falls. The climb seems pretty straight forward. I would recommend just going up jamming your feet straight in, rather than focussing to hard on. Face c,imbuing. Couple laybacks where the crack gets larger. Mar 5, 2013
Minneapolis, MN
bwcasnap   Minneapolis, MN
I have to agree with other climbers regarding this one. I went to the romper room area to get a bunch of easy leads in (new to lead) and ended up TRing instead and leading doobie dance. It is NOT 5.4. Awkward moves abound. My partner climbed it 4 times just to get used to it. I've climbed easier 5.8. I suppose if you want to get prepared for a long alpine climb it's a good teacher for things you might not expect. 5.5 or 5.6 and not a beginning leader climb. Apr 17, 2013
Karla Lipp
Karla Lipp   Boulder
11/28/2013 - Not a jug hall. Definitely not 5.4 but not harder than 5.6 if you have foot jamming skills. I used a #3 Camelot down low and a $4 up high for good protection. Nov 27, 2013
  5.7 PG13
  5.7 PG13
This is definitely a lot harder than a 5.4. Went there expecting an easy climb for someone just getting into trad. Should have read MP and not just rely on the book. The approach is about 1 - 1.5 miles in, but it's a nice hike. You want to make sure you approach the wall from the right side, because you can't do it from the left. This isn't easy to see from further away, but you essentially want to hike straight into the valley, pass the location where the climb starts, and then hike up and traverse left to get to it.

I found the bottom part and the top (right before the anchors) the most challenging. Some moves in the middle were maybe 5.4, but as a full climb i think it's at least a 5.7.

What I didn't like about it is there weren't great places to put gear. So I don't recommend this route for a beginner trad leader. Jan 9, 2014
Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
  5.6 PG13
Idaho Bob   McCall, ID
  5.6 PG13
Like Guise and Gals, a super sandbag on a dismal route. Top anchor poorly placed. Difficult to understand why anyone would put up such a route when there are really good climbs on the same feature. May 13, 2015
The low ratings for this route are baffling. The only thing I can figure is that people without that much exposure to a variety of climbing are upset that they got sandbagged. This is a very nice feature, and very fun. Is it 5.4... almost certainly not, but it is a quality climb. Not recommended for a beginning leader though. My only criticism, other than the slight sandbag, is that the anchor is poorly places. The quality climbing continues noticeably beyond this, and protects well. That seems to be par for the course in RR though. Nov 22, 2015
Mike Zasadzien
5.6 PG13
Mike Zasadzien  
5.6 PG13
Would like to add on previous posters. The 5.4 is a very atypical rating for RR, along with the type of climbing one would normally see at RR. If you treat this like a JT Smearing route, where you stand up on the slab as opposed to climbing the crack traditionally, it seems to go a lot better, and perhaps gives credence to the sandbagged rating. The only problem with standing up, and stem/smearing is that now you distance your torso away from the crack, that either seals up or flares out quite a bit. A couple wide pieces help protect, but really watch your feet, it is pretty easy to slip higher up...

And would like to reiterate the previous statements, NOT FOR THE BUDDING TRAD CLIMBER. Sep 25, 2016
  5.6 PG13
  5.6 PG13
A sandbagged atrocity. Not worth doing as a warm up or at all. Go do Romper Room or Doobie Dance instead. Jun 14, 2017

More About Buzz Buzz