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Routes in Romper Room

Algae on Parade T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Buzz Buzz T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Doobie Dance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Frank's Right Foot Stinks TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Girls and Buoys T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guise and Gals T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hall of Mirrors T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Kindergarten Cop T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magic Mirror T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Romper Room T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ryan Prentiss and Chris Hagen 2010
Page Views: 1,059 total, 12/month
Shared By: Chris Hagen on Nov 19, 2010
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is a relatively brittle route that, with a few more ascents, could become an amazing route in the First Creek area. It is a great combination of face climbing, overhanging jugs, and a crack that requires all of your creativity to complete. It begins on "Doobie Dance" on the Romper Room wall.
P1: After climbing up Doobie dance, continue up the left leaning crack through 2 roofs (brittle) to a small nook and belay from there, .75-2 for the anchor 5.9 150 ft.
P2:Continue up the crack to a bush. 5.8 140 ft
P3:The money pitch! Continue up the crack using fingers, hands, fists and anything you can to make your way up the crack. The crux is a thin crack to a fist jam 3/4 through where the feet disappear on a polished face, and the gear becomes thin. Protect with a #6 or #7 stopper or small cams. Make your way through the jam to a slight off width, protected with #4 or #5 Camalot. Continue through the disappearing crack to some thin face climbing. Watch out for the "cactus crux" at the end. Belay from a ledge. 5.10c 180 ft
P4: Continue up and to the left to a crack and a ledge at the top of the route. 5.9 60 ft

Note: It is also possible to continue up and right after the cactus crux pitch, however daylight motivated us to do a shorter last pitch.

Location

This route is a left leaning crack that extends above "doobie dance" on the Romper Room wall.
Descent: Make your way left scrambling, over ledges, possible rappel to the Lotta Balls descent.

Protection

Traditional. double rack to #3 camalot, single #4, optional #5.

Photos

Larry DeAngelo
Las Vegas, NV
Larry DeAngelo   Las Vegas, NV  
Karsten-- this route is to the left of Jed's line, although both routes seem to have that "angling crack on left side of buttress" feature. Jed's line started by Rising Moons and went up left of Sunset Slab. If I recall properly, it was called either "The Temp Files" or "All Chalkless Revue". Nov 22, 2010
This route IS on the Romper Room Wall, and looks great. It is the obvious extension to Doobie Dance, which is ten feet LEFT of Romper Room 5.7. Apr 24, 2012
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
I think that this route was previously done by the former BLM park ranger, Jed Botsford. I wanna say they put up a route on that same crack also calling it .10+.

I would also say that this route would probably be better listed in the first creek slabs area as opposed to romper room. I think of romper room as a sort of separate wall. I believe this route is closer to the climb now listed as sunset slab. Nov 22, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
Been looking at that line for years- always wondered if it'd go- nice job, guys! Looking forward to getting on it! Nov 19, 2010