Type: Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ryan Prentiss and Chris Hagen 2010
Page Views: 1,691 total · 13/month
Shared By: Chris Hagen on Nov 19, 2010
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This is a relatively brittle route that, with a few more ascents, could become an amazing route in the First Creek area. It is a great combination of face climbing, overhanging jugs, and a crack that requires all of your creativity to complete. It begins on "Doobie Dance" on the Romper Room wall.
P1: After climbing up Doobie dance, continue up the left leaning crack through 2 roofs (brittle) to a small nook and belay from there, .75-2 for the anchor 5.9 150 ft.
P2:Continue up the crack to a bush. 5.8 140 ft
P3:The money pitch! Continue up the crack using fingers, hands, fists and anything you can to make your way up the crack. The crux is a thin crack to a fist jam 3/4 through where the feet disappear on a polished face, and the gear becomes thin. Protect with a #6 or #7 stopper or small cams. Make your way through the jam to a slight off width, protected with #4 or #5 Camalot. Continue through the disappearing crack to some thin face climbing. Watch out for the "cactus crux" at the end. Belay from a ledge. 5.10c 180 ft
P4: Continue up and to the left to a crack and a ledge at the top of the route. 5.9 60 ft

Note: It is also possible to continue up and right after the cactus crux pitch, however daylight motivated us to do a shorter last pitch.

Location

This route is a left leaning crack that extends above "doobie dance" on the Romper Room wall.
Descent: Make your way left scrambling, over ledges, possible rappel to the Lotta Balls descent.

Protection

Traditional. double rack to #3 camalot, single #4, optional #5.

Photos