Hall of Mirrors
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 700 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Ryan Prentiss and Chris Hagen 2010|
|Page Views:||1,112 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Hagen on Nov 19, 2010|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis is a relatively brittle route that, with a few more ascents, could become an amazing route in the First Creek area. It is a great combination of face climbing, overhanging jugs, and a crack that requires all of your creativity to complete. It begins on "Doobie Dance" on the Romper Room wall.
P1: After climbing up Doobie dance, continue up the left leaning crack through 2 roofs (brittle) to a small nook and belay from there, .75-2 for the anchor 5.9 150 ft.
P2:Continue up the crack to a bush. 5.8 140 ft
P3:The money pitch! Continue up the crack using fingers, hands, fists and anything you can to make your way up the crack. The crux is a thin crack to a fist jam 3/4 through where the feet disappear on a polished face, and the gear becomes thin. Protect with a #6 or #7 stopper or small cams. Make your way through the jam to a slight off width, protected with #4 or #5 Camalot. Continue through the disappearing crack to some thin face climbing. Watch out for the "cactus crux" at the end. Belay from a ledge. 5.10c 180 ft
P4: Continue up and to the left to a crack and a ledge at the top of the route. 5.9 60 ft
Note: It is also possible to continue up and right after the cactus crux pitch, however daylight motivated us to do a shorter last pitch.
LocationThis route is a left leaning crack that extends above "doobie dance" on the Romper Room wall.
Descent: Make your way left scrambling, over ledges, possible rappel to the Lotta Balls descent.