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Routes in Romper Room

Algae on Parade T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Buzz Buzz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doobie Dance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Frank's Right Foot Stinks TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Girls and Buoys T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guise and Gals T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hall of Mirrors T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Kindergarten Cop T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magic Mirror T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Romper Room T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Kimi Harrison, Leslie Appling
Page Views: 2,055 total · 14/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Feb 7, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Guise and Gals is the first climb in the Romper Room Area. To get to the start, climb to the ledge that starts near the Lotta Balls area and traverses under the Alcohol Wall. The climb works up a shallow dihedral on the face behind a large boulder. The dihedral is somewhat smooth, but the friction is good and it protects well. At the top of the dihedral, step left, and continue up the corner to the anchors on the wall to the left. Rappel with a single rope.

Gear: Standard rack.

Photos

46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.4
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.4
Not a bad route for learning trad climbers along with many at the Romper Room area! Nov 17, 2006
CalebSimpson
5.6 PG13
CalebSimpson  
5.6 PG13
Crappy protection at the start, also felt more like 5.6, it requires a crazy high step to get on the rock then awkward stances to start as well. All I could get in at the start was some micro cams (in sideways, I doubt they would have held). The crack at the start was thin and flaring. Apr 4, 2008
Alex Rogers
Sydney, Australia
  5.4
Alex Rogers   Sydney, Australia
  5.4
Good fun, and I felt it protected very well from about 3-4m upwards. I'm getting back into leading trad after a very long break, and had no problems with this - so would say a good route for the new / returning leader. Oct 4, 2011
Micah Kurtz
Denver, Co
Micah Kurtz   Denver, Co
I wouldn't recommend this for a beginners lead. The first two pieces of pro I found in the first 15 feet were a small C3 and #3 C4 which were questionable at that. I found the beginning to be smooth and a little awkward, but it does get much easier once you turn the corner. Oct 29, 2013
Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
  5.6 PG13
Idaho Bob   McCall, ID
  5.6 PG13
Climbed this in March of 2011. Don't waste your time. May 13, 2015
Michelle Kemmer
Calabasas, CA
  5.4
Michelle Kemmer   Calabasas, CA
  5.4
I'm a beginning trad leader and I LOVED this route! That said...I recommend this for experienced beginners only and not total noobs. You've got to be good at placing pro - and a little creativity helps too.

Contrary to some of the other comments, I thought there was good pro on pretty much the whole route including the bottom (red tricam, people-it's a creative placement but it works). There are a couple of places you have to run it out a bit, but the climbing is easy. I thought the feet were totally solid the whole way and there was great stances the whole way for pro placement too. Yes the bottom was a little awkward, but I'm a total whiner when it comes to awkward climbs and I honestly didn't think it was that bad.

Overall, I think this a super fun route for an experienced beginner.

Oh and thanks to whoever bailed and left the #3 cam behind - I've added it to my booty collection. Apr 25, 2016

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