Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Todd & Donette Swain
Page Views: 3,429 total · 23/month
Shared By: 46and2 on Nov 17, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


If there is a crux it would come up by the 3rd bolt in a one move thin section of rock. Could be the best route on the wall IMHO and should not be missed! Really killer start to climb and then just super consistent great climbing with some really fun run-outs that really are not too bad!


Located just right of Girls and Buoys and ten feet left of Magic Mirror just underneath the right side of a triangular shaped roof. Follow thin crack to roof, place some gear, then pull roof to first bolt! Rappel with TWO ropes to get down!


This is a mixed route with 4 protection bolts with homemade hangers along with some required gear placements and fixed anchors and slings up top! Probably not the best route for beginning trad climber to learn the craft as some placements are a bit crafty.


Decatur, GA
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
This is a real gem! The roof move is fun and well-protected, and the moderate runout toward the top is a good preview for anyone wanting to lead the much headier Lotta Balls (P2). Apr 7, 2008
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
Yes, a good warm-up for Lotta Balls. The bolts and/or hangers could use replacing. Jun 7, 2011
Alex Rogers
Sydney, Australia
Alex Rogers   Sydney, Australia
Climbed Magic Mirror next to it, then toproped it as they share the same anchor. It was easier than it looked, the overhang is straightforward and fun - but I was glad I was not leading it as the pro in the top section is scarce and tricky, and the bolts are appalling (dodgy home-made hangers, and rusty cold shut spinners for an anchor). If this was rebolted it would be one of the best climbs in the area - an excellent route that lost stars because of the poor fixed pro. Oct 4, 2011
smassey   CO
Duly noted, Alex. We'll try and get around to replacing the bolts at some point. Oct 4, 2011
BackCountry Sortor
Ogden, UT
BackCountry Sortor   Ogden, UT
The anchors are tricky to find. Luckily for me, the guy coming off this climb told me the anchors were to the right of where you'd think they were. He had climbed 20' above them before realizing where they were. Even with that info I had to look for them. As we hiked out, I looked back and noticed someone else had just climbed about 30' above them. That couldn't have been a fun down climb. Nov 14, 2011
The anchors are about 50 feet below the small roof and are on the right side of the face, much lower and closer to the right-hand crack than you would expect. It is easy to miss them if you are climbing on the good holds in the center of the face at that point, as the anchors are around a small corner. Apr 1, 2012
Replaced all bolts and moved anchor slightly left for better pull and easier visual location. Hadn't climbed this rig in years, but have to agree-really, really fun pitch. You can JUST BARELY rap from the brand new stainless (old anchor was hilarious, 3 homemade cold shut spinners-total newbie diaper-loader) to the starting boulder pile with a FULL 70M rope. Lowering with a single rope is a bad idea unless you dragged an 80M. I think the black face climbs to the right are pretty rad, too, but if you only had time for 3 pitches in this area and don't lead 5.10, they would be Romper Room, K.Cop, and first pitch of Lotta Balls, not in that order. Nice "runout" face flavor on this one, although it protects nicely with a single rack and isn't dangerous at all. One of the original pro bolts was drilled into hollow onionskin and might have pulled under a hard load. Welcome to Red Rocks... Apr 24, 2012
Reno, NV
BruceB   Reno, NV
The new bolts are wonderful - thanks.
This is a super fun route. The roof is easier than if first looks and protects really well. Higher up, the natural pro requires a bit of creativity, but if done right it's certainly not a runout route. May 2, 2012
New bolts are still nice and shiny. Romper Room was crowded so we ended up climbing this with a 60m rope. It's doable if you belay your second from the top and are OK down climbing from the high shelf at the beginning of Magic Mirror to the right.

Most people seem to think the crux is at the bottom, I thought it was right after the third bolt. Mar 13, 2014
Sean Stoops
Henderson, NV
Sean Stoops   Henderson, NV
Great route, but doesn't take much in the way of trad gear. I felt like I was sport climbing with a full rack. =) I think I used a couple pieces in the .3-.75 range and slung a couple chicken heads. As everyone else says, the anchors sneak up on you. Keep an eye our right for them!

We did this with a single 70m with a bunch of cordelette tied together on one end for a pull cord. Oct 7, 2014
Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
Idaho Bob   McCall, ID
A really good climb. Can't believe I waited so long to get on it. All you need is a #3 to protect the initial roof, then lots of small gear, Aliens and Offsets. We rapped with 2x70. May 13, 2015
Thanks for the new anchor bolts Killer. This route is great. The pro is spaced out and can't be passed up unless you really want to run it out. I used a #2 and #1 cam in respective horizontal pockets after the first bolt. If you don't see these, I'm not sure what else you can get between the bolts. A really fun face climb. 70 m gets you just to the top of the boulders on the left as previously discussed. Feb 14, 2016
Mike Womack
Sherman Oaks, CA
  5.7+ R
Mike Womack   Sherman Oaks, CA
  5.7+ R
great climb, way fun! but why is this not R rated? I had some OK peanut placements before the first new bolt, but I felt like I was soling after the roof. There was a solid 20' of climbing with a groundfall potential. I only saw 3 new bolts Apr 10, 2017
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.8 PG13
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.8 PG13
Belay from the top of the boulder in front of this route. A 70m will just barely allow your partner to TR and rap. We found this out the hard way as I was being lowered.

There are several run-out sections above questionable placements (horizonal cams). Bring tri-cams for a more secure ascent.

Otherwise, I found this route to be a fun addition to time-spent in the area. Apr 7, 2019