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Doobie Dance

5.6, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 190 votes
FA: Unknown; 1970s
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (14) First Cree… > Romper Room
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description

This climb goes up the left side of the steep, rectangular patch of black rock in the Romper Room Area. Finger cracks, varnished plates and large jug holds bring you to the top. Well protected. Rappel from a two bolt anchor with one 60m rope. This is a good climb for the beginner leader.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Romper Room Right
[Hide Photo] Romper Room Right
Leading Doobie Dance.
[Hide Photo] Leading Doobie Dance.
At the anchors on Doobie Dance (5.6)
[Hide Photo] At the anchors on Doobie Dance (5.6)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] This is a fun lead, more interesting to me than the more popular Romper Room to the right. Don't think I'd call it a good beginner lead, though; some sections didn't seem 5.6-easy to me.

JL Apr 7, 2008
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
[Hide Comment] Agreed - not really a good opener for a first 5.6 trad lead. As of 4/17/10 there's a jammed cam about 20 feet up, left very recently it seemed, either same day, or day before. Apr 18, 2010
Ty Gittins
bozeman
[Hide Comment] Doobie dance was my first trad lead. Near the top I remember threading my largest nut through two holes in a bomber flake! Jan 25, 2011
[Hide Comment] Oct 29, 2012
Did this last Friday; agree with a couple of the previous comments. Some sections seemed a little harder than 5.6ish --- I would not recommend this as a first trad lead. Oct 29, 2012
Franz N
Mass.
  5.6
[Hide Comment] There is a pretty cool finger crack 2/3 the way up, which could make the climb tougher if you have big hands. Otherwise, lots of foot placements. Mar 5, 2013
Karla Lipp
Boulder
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Good Red Rocks test piece for those who are already solid 5.6 leaders. Long and sustained climbing, takes good gear. Nov 27, 2013
MariaZ Zimmerman
San Diego, CA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I'm calling it a 5.7 because it seemed sketchier than Romper Room right next to it. Jul 17, 2017
michelle w
las vegas, nv
 
[Hide Comment] This route eats small cams, .75 and smaller and a lot of stoppers. Nov 19, 2018
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I thought this route was harder than the route to climber's right. Also, be careful placing nuts; I nearly got one stuck due to the grabby nature of the rock (wasn't used to it yet). Pretty fun though. Apr 7, 2019
Bryan K
Las Vegas, NV
 
[Hide Comment] Really fun route that in my opinion is a great beginner lead so long as you are capable of climbing at the grade (which should go without saying for all beginner trad leads). If you can follow 5.7-5.8 clean, then this is a great lead. This route eats gear and you can totally sew it up with a standard rack. Ease of placing protection and the quantity of good gear you can place is the most important thing for a beginner lead in my opinion. Jul 30, 2020
[Hide Comment] Good route for a newer leader at the grade as it protects well and is pretty straight forward. Bolted anchors at the top. Oct 10, 2023