Bad Moon Arising
Avg: 1 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 85 ft|
|Page Views:||462 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||Brian in SLC on Nov 29, 2011|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionA wide face with a right facing corner on the left leads to a chimney hole feature thats a bit unique. Some face climbing leads to a fairly dark final section where the open face is replaced by a dark, wide, chimney (not quite small enough to get much of any real chimney action on the back wall).
A final heady step up to the right leads to daylight and a nice ledge for a belay at a dead tree mass with enough live bits for back up.
A short scramble to the right leads to the standard down climb on the bottom of the standard First Creek Slab descent.
This route could be used as an approach pitch to the routes that ascend the standard descent gully of the First Creek Slabs (Smiley Face, Smooth Sailing, Falling Stars).
Some loose rock located in the trough near the exit hole. Also, the route may be a bit dusty so take care on any face moves.
LocationThe gaping maw located just to the climbers right of Algae on Parade. Left of the standard First Creek Slabs down climb descent. Also left of Rising Moons.
A short hike through a small veil of brush leads to the obvious chimney and a nice, flat spot to gear up.
ProtectionA #1 Camalot (or equivalent) fits nicely in the right facing corner crack near the last daylight on the route, prior to heading into the dark face climbing section of the chimney.
Significant run out exists above any reasonable protection opportunities. A fall near the exit of the last hole at the top of the chimney might well have disastrous results.
For the most part, the rock is fairly solid. Near the exit hole at the top, the rock on the upper left side is fairly friable and most likely not robust enough to support protection.
Perhaps some additional protection is available with larger cams or more ingenious discoveries.