Type: Trad, 85 ft (26 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 859 total · 7/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Nov 29, 2011
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


A wide face with a right facing corner on the left leads to a chimney hole feature that’s a bit unique. Some face climbing leads to a fairly dark final section where the open face is replaced by a dark, wide, chimney (not quite small enough to get much of any real chimney action on the back wall).

A final heady step up to the right leads to daylight and a nice ledge for a belay at a dead tree mass with enough live bits for back up.

A short scramble to the right leads to the standard down climb on the bottom of the standard First Creek Slab descent.

This route could be used as an approach pitch to the routes that ascend the standard descent gully of the First Creek Slabs (Smiley Face, Smooth Sailing, Falling Stars).

Some loose rock located in the trough near the exit hole. Also, the route may be a bit dusty so take care on any face moves.


The gaping maw located just to the climber’s right of Algae on Parade. Left of the standard First Creek Slabs down climb descent. Also left of Rising Moons.

A short hike through a small veil of brush leads to the obvious chimney and a nice, flat spot to gear up.


A #1 Camalot (or equivalent) fits nicely in the right facing corner crack near the last daylight on the route, prior to heading into the dark face climbing section of the chimney.

Significant run out exists above any reasonable protection opportunities. A fall near the exit of the last hole at the top of the chimney might well have disastrous results.

For the most part, the rock is fairly solid. Near the exit hole at the top, the rock on the upper left side is fairly friable and most likely not robust enough to support protection.

Perhaps some additional protection is available with larger cams or more ingenious discoveries.

Take care.