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Routes in First Creek Slabs

Bad Moon Arising T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Big Sky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Comeback Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Falling Stars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hot Flash T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lady Luck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
NOPE.NOPE.NOPE.NOPE.NOPE. T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rising Moons T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Romanian Rib T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Romanian Rib - Left Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smiley Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smooth Sailing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunset Slab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunset Slab Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 455 total, 6/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Nov 29, 2011
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

A wide face with a right facing corner on the left leads to a chimney hole feature that’s a bit unique. Some face climbing leads to a fairly dark final section where the open face is replaced by a dark, wide, chimney (not quite small enough to get much of any real chimney action on the back wall).

A final heady step up to the right leads to daylight and a nice ledge for a belay at a dead tree mass with enough live bits for back up.

A short scramble to the right leads to the standard down climb on the bottom of the standard First Creek Slab descent.

This route could be used as an approach pitch to the routes that ascend the standard descent gully of the First Creek Slabs (Smiley Face, Smooth Sailing, Falling Stars).

Some loose rock located in the trough near the exit hole. Also, the route may be a bit dusty so take care on any face moves.

Location

The gaping maw located just to the climber’s right of Algae on Parade. Left of the standard First Creek Slabs down climb descent. Also left of Rising Moons.

A short hike through a small veil of brush leads to the obvious chimney and a nice, flat spot to gear up.

Protection

A #1 Camalot (or equivalent) fits nicely in the right facing corner crack near the last daylight on the route, prior to heading into the dark face climbing section of the chimney.

Significant run out exists above any reasonable protection opportunities. A fall near the exit of the last hole at the top of the chimney might well have disastrous results.

For the most part, the rock is fairly solid. Near the exit hole at the top, the rock on the upper left side is fairly friable and most likely not robust enough to support protection.

Perhaps some additional protection is available with larger cams or more ingenious discoveries.

Take care.

Photos

Kevin Mac
  5.7 R
Kevin Mac  
  5.7 R
When I lead the route I noticed a thin Manila cord coming from the darker part of the pitch. As I made my way up, it turns out it was girth hitched to a wedged rock. Not sure on the stability of the rock but I do not recommend tugging on it! It was too far to the right to comfortably cut the cord considering the significant runout, it wasn't worth the risk. So, just a heads up to anybody thinking of leading this route and getting spooked by the runout. Mar 14, 2015
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Yeah CCR!
I see the bad moon arising. / I see trouble on the way. / I see earthquakes and lightnin'. / I see bad times today.
Don't go around tonight,/ Well, it's bound to take your life, / There's a bad moon on the rise. Dec 1, 2011
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
I can't imagine that it hadn't been done. Kinda obvious line. Very downclimbable too until you step up into the face/final chimney.

That, and, its just not that hard. Be a bad thing to tumble out of though. Tempted to give it an "X" rating...hmmm. Not sure even a "Stone Mountain" belay would keep a falling climber off the deck if they fell on the upper part of the route.

Thought I'd stick it in the database as its an option for approaching the upper pitches, or, if folks are curious about it since its kind of a neat looking feature. Dec 1, 2011
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
I have heard that this may have been climbed but not sure by who. You should maybe put your name up as an FRA (first recorded ascent) for now though and see if anyone chimes in. Nov 30, 2011