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Routes in Glacier Point Apron - Left

A Mother's Lament T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Cow-Center Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cow-Left Side, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cow-Right Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grack - Center, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grack - Left Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grack Wrong T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grack, Marginal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Grack, Right Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Hoppy's Favorite T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Tightrope T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Valley Hizeman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown, but 1960's
Page Views: 2,010 total, 32/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on Oct 1, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron Details
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Follow the double crack system ~ 120' to a good belay ledge. No fixed anchors. Second lead traverses left and follows the left edge of a large roof-flake system. There are rappel bolts. Need 2 60 meter ropes to descend. There is an intermediate rappel anchor, also bolted.

Location

The route is easily identified by a bay bush growing from the double crack some 35 feet from the ground. This is about 50 feet left from the Grack, Left Side route.

Protection

First pitch, standard light apron rack plus runners and draws; second pitch a few medium cams. Second pitch is slightly unprotected and runnout.
The old green Roper guide rates this route at 5.5, but the bay bush has grown considerably in the intervening years. It makes it more difficult than before! I originally climbed this route in 1982, and repeated just 2 days ago. Still, it's a worthwhile climb. I'd suggest addition of a double ASCA bolt anchor atop the first pitch to enable retreats without leaving any gear. Oct 2, 2012