Adventure Projects is hiring an Android engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Areas in Peterskill

a. Khadejha Area 3 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
b. Bunkbed Wall 7 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
c. LA Roof 3 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
d. Breakfast Wall 7 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
e. Breaker & Very Blocky Walls 8 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
f. Off Limits & Reach Around Walls 6 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
g. Enterprise Wall 6 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
h. Genuflect Wall 2 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
i. Terror Dome 5 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
j. Scrotum Pole/Drive in Area 5 / 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
k. Oops Wall 6 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
l. Cuckoo's Nest and the Crevice 3 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
m. Crevice right, and Psycho Wall 7 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
n. Impossible Roof Area 2 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
o. Big Slab & Compactor 1 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
p. Little Havana 5 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
q. Chalkboard Wall 5 / 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
r. Lou's Wall 4 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
s. The Golden Wall 7 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
t. Mya to the East End 9 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK cliff) 16 / 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19

Description

A "miniature Gunks", Peterskill has the same type of rock (quartzite conglomerate), the same type of routes (filled with roofs and horizontal cracks), and uses similar gear--but is only one pitch high. It's the perfect place to get used to leading/seconding, TRing, and learning to build gear anchors. Bouldering at Peterskill is also popular. There is an access trail that runs along the entire top of the cliff with several places to descend to a similar access trail that runs along the bottom of the cliff; getting up top to set up a TR anchor is extremely easy.

Peterskill is home to the globally-rare Ridgeline Dwarf Pitch Pine - in fact, it's one of the largest stands of Pitch Pines in the United States; consequently, Minnewaska State Park has declared the Pitch Pines as protected, and not to be used in any way as part of an anchor. If you don't know what a Pitch Pine looks like, then don't use ANY coniferous (pine) trees, just to be safe. Also, any tree used in an anchor should be padded in some way to protect against rope damage. Failure to comply with these rules can and will result in the closing of Peterskill to climbing.

Some of the routes at Peterskill have bolt anchors (Bunk Arete, Reach Around/Crack-a-lack, Captain's Log/Kling-On/Hanky/TP, The Scrotem Pole, Floops/Oops, Yellow Wallpaper and Psycho Cracks, Chalkboard wall, Skink, Fickle Fingers, Golden Dreams). Other than these, you'll have to build gear anchors. The anchor bolts exist due to the efforts of some of the guide services; they're the ONLY ones allowed to put in anchor bolts. Please do not add any without proper authorization.

The nicest thing about Peterskill--aside from the Gunks-quality rock and ease of access--is the fact that Minnewaska Preserve limits the number of climbers allow on-site per day. This tends to prevent the crowds you'll see at the Gunks. But get there early, or risk being turned away.

An updated map is here

Entry Fees - Unfortunately, your Mohonk Preserve season pass will not work at Peterskill, and your Peterskill season pass won't work at the Trapps - the areas are under different management. For 2013, Peterskill pricing is:

$10 per climber / boulderer per day
100 climbers and 30 boulderers allowed in the climbing area at one time
Season pass: $90 per person

The park opens at 9am.

When you leave for the day - especially if you leave early - check out at the booth. This will 1) help the management keep track of who might still be out on the rock if someone goes missing, and 2) allow another climber in, if the max for the day has already been reached. For each climber that leaves, they'll allow another in.

Guidebook: In 2015, Mike Rawdon and Marty Molitoris published a new guidebook: A Rock Climber's Guide to the Peter's Kill Climbing Area - find it at Rock & Snow, at The Inner Wall, at the Peterskill center, or on on Ebay. The mobile version is available from the GunksApp folks.

Getting There

Peterskill is located approximately 1.4 miles past the West Trapps Parking Area for the Gunks; continue along 44/55 past the Trapps lot, and you'll see the Minnewaska State Park - Peterskill Climbing Area sign on your right. From the parking lot to the cliffs is no more than a few minutes walk; even at the furthest climbing wall, you're not more than 10 minutes from the parking lot.

174 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Peterskill Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Peterskill

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 54
Bunk Arete
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 49
Slot Machine
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 68
The Kling-On
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
 32
Santa's Escape
TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 61
Skink
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 53
Reach Around
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 72
Psycho Crack Right
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 30
Pop Quiz
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 34
Dunce's Corner
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 148
The Golden Dream
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 55
The Yellow Wallpaper
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 29
Oops
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 34
Floops
Trad, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 59
Fickle Fingers
Trad, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
 3
The Land of the Lost
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bunk Arete b. Bunkbed Wall
 54
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Slot Machine s. The Golden Wall
 49
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad, TR
The Kling-On g. Enterprise Wall
 68
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Santa's Escape k. Oops Wall
 32
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X TR
Skink r. Lou's Wall
 61
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, TR
Reach Around f. Off Limits & Reach…
 53
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Psycho Crack Right m. Crevice right, and…
 72
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Pop Quiz q. Chalkboard Wall
 30
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Dunce's Corner q. Chalkboard Wall
 34
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
The Golden Dream s. The Golden Wall
 148
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Yellow Wallpaper m. Crevice right, and…
 55
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Oops k. Oops Wall
 29
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Floops k. Oops Wall
 34
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad, TR
Fickle Fingers s. The Golden Wall
 59
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
The Land of the Lost l. Cuckoo's Nest and…
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X TR
More Classic Climbs in Peterskill »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Tabo  
Peterskill is really a great place for beginners.

It can be a great place for learning to lead... but beware! I've had a few ropes come whizzing past while on lead, one in a rope bag almost took me out. Most people are there to toprope, and if they don't see an anchor at the top, they don't expect anyone to be leading from below.

So take care leading at PK.

Other info:
PK has bathrooms, with running water, so it can be more kid/beginner friendly.

The parking lot closes at dusk. Once they close the gate, you won't be able to get your car out of the lot. Aug 31, 2009
Pat Langendorfer
Muncie, IN
Pat Langendorfer   Muncie, IN
I was up there in September 2010, and didn't see any snakes, BUT it isn't just the copperheads you need to look out for. There are definitely rattlesnakes too. thankfully most of the nesting areas have been marked off by park staff, but beware when plugging gear for top anchors around the Khadejha Area. Don't end up in the hospital! Mar 19, 2011
Tommy Ormond
Eldorado Springs, CO
Tommy Ormond   Eldorado Springs, CO
Why are so many comments about copperheads at Peterskill here on Mountain Project?

I lived on Trapps road and at Split Rock for a few years, worked as a Preserve Ranger and a Minnewaska State Park Ranger, spend years of my life at the Peterskill doing everything from climbing to dirtbiking out there. There are plenty of snakes, copperheads and rattlers all over. My friends dog got into a copperhead once, it was bad. Beware all over the Gunks for those little dudes. Jul 18, 2012
Tommy Ormond
Eldorado Springs, CO
Tommy Ormond   Eldorado Springs, CO
Jul 23, 2012
crackatoa Spiesbach
Boulder,Co
crackatoa Spiesbach   Boulder,Co
So I know I've seen a photo of a big wide crack in peterskill but I can't remember where.. it's covered in lichen on both sides but the crack looks clean.. anyone know what I'm talking about? Apr 6, 2016
Crak - you thinking of Bro Crack?

mountainproject.com/v/bro-c… Apr 27, 2016
4th St  
The first guidebook to Peterskill, which I assume remains influential, may have wildly over-rated a number of climbs at the lower grades. At least relative to Trapps ratings. Dec 8, 2017

More About Peterskill

Printer-Friendly
What's New
Guidebooks (5)

All Photos Within Peterskill (274)

Most Popular · Newest · Random