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Elevation: 1,122 ft 342 m
GPS: 41.7389, -74.2179
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Dec 13, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

Description Suggest change

A "miniature Gunks", Peterskill has the same type of rock (quartzite conglomerate), the same type of routes (filled with roofs and horizontal cracks), and uses similar gear--but is only one pitch high. It's the perfect place to get used to leading/seconding, TRing, and learning to build gear anchors. Bouldering at Peterskill is also popular. There is an access trail that runs along the entire top of the cliff with several places to descend to a similar access trail that runs along the bottom of the cliff; getting up top to set up a TR anchor is extremely easy.

Peterskill is home to the globally-rare Ridgeline Dwarf Pitch Pine - in fact, it's one of the largest stands of Pitch Pines in the United States; consequently, Minnewaska State Park has declared the Pitch Pines as protected.

If you don't know what a Pitch Pine looks like, then don't use ANY coniferous (pine) trees, just to be safe. Any tree used in an anchor should be padded in some way to protect against rope damage. Failure to comply with these rules can and will result in the closing of Peterskill to climbing.

According to Jorge Gomes, Assistant Park Manager at Minnewaska State Park (MSPP): MSPP does not require padding around trees, but they would however appreciate the use of it if possible. Using unpadded trees and pitch pines is allowed, but MSPP requests you use them in ways that does not cause the tree any damage. The use of static rope, slings, webbing, and cordellettes around trees is acceptable as long as they don't move around to cut/burn into the tree. Unacceptable: pulling your rope from rappelling directly off a tree (meaning no anchor between the tree and your rope), or using girth hitches (constricting around the trunk possibly breaking off bark).
  

Some of the routes at Peterskill have bolt anchors (Bunk Arete, Reach Around/Crack-a-lack, Captain's Log/Kling-On/Hanky/TP, The Scrotem Pole, Floops/Oops, Yellow Wallpaper and Psycho Cracks, Chalkboard wall, Skink, Fickle Fingers, Golden Dreams). Other than these, you'll have to build gear anchors. The anchor bolts exist due to the efforts of some of the guide services; they're the ONLY ones allowed to put in anchor bolts. Please do not add any without proper authorization.

The nicest thing about Peterskill--aside from the Gunks-quality rock and ease of access--is the fact that Minnewaska Preserve limits the number of climbers allow on-site per day. This tends to prevent the crowds you'll see at the Gunks. But get there early, or risk being turned away.

Please note that climbing is not permitted at Peterskill during the winter. You can check the status on their website.

An updated map is here

Entry Fees - Unfortunately, your Mohonk Preserve season pass will not work at Peterskill, and your Peterskill season pass won't work at the Trapps - the areas are under different management. For 2013, Peterskill pricing is:

$10 per climber / boulderer per day

100 climbers and 30 boulderers allowed in the climbing area at one time

Season pass: $90 per person

The park opens at 9am.

When you leave for the day - especially if you leave early - check out at the booth. This will 1) help the management keep track of who might still be out on the rock if someone goes missing, and 2) allow another climber in, if the max for the day has already been reached. For each climber that leaves, they'll allow another in.

Guidebook: In 2015, Mike Rawdon and Marty Molitoris published a new guidebook: A Rock Climber's Guide to the Peter's Kill Climbing Area - find it at Rock & Snow, at The Inner Wall, at the Peterskill center, or on on Ebay. The mobile version is available from the GunksApp folks.

Getting There Suggest change

Peterskill is located approximately 1.4 miles past the West Trapps Parking Area for the Gunks; continue along 44/55 past the Trapps lot, and you'll see the Minnewaska State Park - Peterskill Climbing Area sign on your right. From the parking lot to the cliffs is no more than a few minutes walk; even at the furthest climbing wall, you're not more than 10 minutes from the parking lot.

211 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Peterskill

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 95
Bunk Arete
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 80
Slot Machine
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 115
The Kling-On
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
 63
Conor's Corridor AKA Santa's E…
Trad, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 95
Skink
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 91
Reach Around
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 139
Psycho Crack Right
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 268
The Golden Dream (AKA Dihedraltr…
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 100
The Yellow Wallpaper
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Dorsal Fin AKA Brain Strain
Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 62
Oops
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 100
Fickle Fingers
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 56
Floops
Trad, TR
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
 20
The Land of the Lost
TR
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 8
Writer's Block
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bunk Arete b. Bunkbed Wall
 95
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Slot Machine s. The Golden Wall
 80
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad, TR
The Kling-On g. Enterprise Wall
 115
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Conor's Corridor AKA Sant… k. Oops Wall
 63
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X Trad, TR
Skink r. Lou's Wall
 95
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, TR
Reach Around f. Off Limits & Reach…
 91
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Psycho Crack Right m. Crevice right, & P…
 139
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
The Golden Dream (AKA Dihed… s. The Golden Wall
 268
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Yellow Wallpaper m. Crevice right, & P…
 100
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Dorsal Fin AKA Brain Strain m. Crevice right, & P…
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Oops k. Oops Wall
 62
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Fickle Fingers s. The Golden Wall
 100
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Floops k. Oops Wall
 56
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
The Land of the Lost l. Cuckoo's Nest & th…
 20
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X TR
Writer's Block q. Chalkboard Wall
 8
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Trad, TR
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