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|Shared By:||IJMayer on Aug 7, 2011 · Updates|
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The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
MSPP allows only 30 bouldering passes per day (they allow 70 roped climbing passes per day) which means that it is unlikely that you'll see huge crowds of pads and people under the boulders. Passes cost $10 per person. This can be a good thing if you're looking for a spot to quietly hone your skills on the moderates or a bad thing if you're looking to stack some pads for your death-defying project. The only time that the number of passes becomes an issue are the first nice days in Spring and those heavenly weekends in September in October. On most weekends in the Summer and almost always during the week you'll have no need to worry.
The Peterskill boulders are mostly in the shade which keeps the climbing relatively cool, but the rocks take a little bit longer to dry out. Don't be surprised if the horizontal cracks and pockets still feel a little wet a day or two after a heavy rain. In the spring the bugs are pretty heinous compared to the Trapps Carriage road, but the friction is excellent, so it's usually worth it.
You have to keep an eye on the time as the park closes for the night and the rangers lock the gate. They WILL lock your car in for the night, which means you'll get a ticket from the New York State Park Police. There is no camping at Minnewaska State Park Preserve, so you should use the DEC Multiple Use Area where most visiting climbers camp. For info on food, and other places to stay nearby, check out the Gunks main page.
Finally, cell phone reception is virtually non-existent in the boulder fields. Plan accordingly.
Classic Climbing Routes at Peterskill Bouldering
Days w Precip