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Routes in m. Crevice right, and Psycho Wall

After Five TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Wallpaper T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Crack of Respendent Delights T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Dorsal Fin AKA Brain Strain T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Psychadelic T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Psyche Out TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Psycho Crack Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Psycho Crack Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yellow Wallpaper, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,109 total, 23/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Jan 25, 2007
Admins: JSH

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Description

Including for completeness sake; it's always been busy when I want to try it. A classic Gunks "face" climb.

Location

Straight up face across from 1-800-Stick-It Arete; stay ten feet left of crack with tree. Easy walk-off.

Protection

Plenty and easy to place. Bolted TR anchor.

Photos

Andy P.
Wisconsin
Andy P.   Wisconsin
This route is close to a deep crack that is great on hot days because it feels like A/C air coming out of the crack. On the other hand be aware that this route takes much longer to dry after a damp day. Some really slippery holds at the bottom in the mornings. Aug 20, 2016
AJC10
 
AJC10  
 
The guide book by Marty and Mike show a different route up than this page does. They have the route going much further to the left which might explain the 5.9+ rating. I too thought it was easier than a 5.9+ but I stayed more right which had way bigger holds than the left. Dec 13, 2015
the bolts are there but they don't have rings so it's best to pull rope up from the top and rap down from the bolts (with rings) to climber's right over 'psycho crack right'.

felt way easy for 5.9+... Jun 24, 2012