Mountain Project Logo

Routes in m. Crevice right, and Psycho Wall

After Five TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Wallpaper T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Crack of Respendent Delights T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Dorsal Fin AKA Brain Strain T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Psychadelic T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Psyche Out TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Psycho Crack Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Psycho Crack Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yellow Wallpaper, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,689 total, 58/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Jan 25, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


67 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Possibly the best 5.8 in Peterskill; it has a little of everything - arete climbing, face climbing, off-width crack, and slightly-overhanging jug-bashing. It's also the only route in Peterskill to have bolts off which you can rappel.

Location

Start right of the open book on small arch in face; follow to off-width, and continue to top. FWIW, I tend to start on the arete of the open book, end up on the face at the base of the offwidth, and traverse slightly into the offwidth; different strokes, etc.

Protection

More than adequate, although perhaps not as much as a person might like. Bolted TR/rappel anchor. Easy walk-off.

Photos

jdrago
Rosendale, NY
jdrago   Rosendale, NY
this climb just about has it all. wish there was a second pitch. May 19, 2013
kenr  
Seemed straightforward to just start in the open book - (trying to follow the description above, I didn't see the "arch" out to the side).

Crux seemed squirmy: the off-width as advertised -- and more than just squirmy, had some moves I had to think about -- so I guess I'd call it "interesting off-width". Otherwise lots of fun face climbing. Oct 9, 2012
Tabo
 
Tabo  
 
This is one of those routes where I almost got hit by a rope while on lead. Since it's overhanging, a quick look from above and they might not see you. Leave your packs back from the cliff so anyone looking over can see there's someone down there. Aug 31, 2009