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Routes in m. Crevice right, and Psycho Wall

After Five TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Wallpaper T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Crack of Respendent Delights T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dorsal Fin AKA Brain Strain T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Psychadelic T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Psyche Out TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Psycho Crack Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Psycho Crack Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yellow Wallpaper, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,308 total · 59/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Jan 25, 2007 with updates from David Kerkeslager
Admins: JSH

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Description

Possibly the best 5.8 in Peterskill; it has a little of everything - arete climbing, face climbing, off-width crack, and slightly-overhanging jug-bashing. It's also the only route in Peterskill to have bolts off which you can rappel.

Location

Start right of the open book on small arch in face; follow to off-width, and continue to top. FWIW, I tend to start on the arete of the open book, end up on the face at the base of the offwidth, and traverse slightly into the offwidth; different strokes, etc.

Protection

More than adequate, although perhaps not as much as a person might like. Bolted TR/rappel anchor. Easy walk-off.

If leading you may find a #4 cam useful.

Photos

Tabo
 
Tabo  
 
This is one of those routes where I almost got hit by a rope while on lead. Since it's overhanging, a quick look from above and they might not see you. Leave your packs back from the cliff so anyone looking over can see there's someone down there. Aug 31, 2009
kenr  
Seemed straightforward to just start in the open book - (trying to follow the description above, I didn't see the "arch" out to the side).

Crux seemed squirmy: the off-width as advertised -- and more than just squirmy, had some moves I had to think about -- so I guess I'd call it "interesting off-width". Otherwise lots of fun face climbing. Oct 9, 2012
jdrago
Rosendale, NY
jdrago   Rosendale, NY
this climb just about has it all. wish there was a second pitch. May 19, 2013

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