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Routes in m. Crevice right, and Psycho Wall

After Five TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Wallpaper T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Crack of Respendent Delights T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dorsal Fin AKA Brain Strain T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Psychadelic T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Psyche Out TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Psycho Crack Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Psycho Crack Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yellow Wallpaper, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 420 total · 3/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Jan 25, 2007
Admins: JSH

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Description

Including for completeness sake.

This route isn't nearly as popular as it's twin, Psycho Crack Right, likely because the anchor is somewhat problematic while PCR has bolts. Looks just as fun - give it a try!

Location

Start in open book and go out to crack on left; follow up to tree and continue open book and crack system to top. Easy walk-off.

Protection

Unknown. Gear-only anchor at top (or trees with static line and/or directionals).

Photos

for an anchor you can use the bolts over yellow wallpaper with a direction piece of gear over PCL. Jun 24, 2012
Andy P.
Wisconsin
Andy P.   Wisconsin
There is an awesome chockstone at the top of this climb to sling and use as a redirect from the bolts. Still puts you a bit right of the climb but close enough IMO. Aug 20, 2016
David Kerkeslager
New Paltz, NY
David Kerkeslager   New Paltz, NY
I found more hand jams on this route than on any other Gunks route I've done. 6 days ago

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