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Routes in m. Crevice right, and Psycho Wall

After Five TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Wallpaper T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Crack of Respendent Delights T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Dorsal Fin AKA Brain Strain T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Psychadelic T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Psyche Out TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Psycho Crack Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Psycho Crack Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yellow Wallpaper, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 397 total · 5/month
Shared By: Gunkiemike on Nov 8, 2011
Admins: JSH

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Description

As chimney routes go, this one's pretty neat. Likely hidden for years behind a large tree, which now lies in pieces at the base (cut by Park personnel). A wild line with a "bottomless" horizontal section. Update - the route does have history, as it turns out. Rich Romano, Andrew Zalewski, and perhaps others climbed this route years ago.

Location

Follow the chimney (tight down low) to where it widens and you can crab crawl out to the west face, where an offwidth crack leads to the top.

Protection

This is a spooky but wild route to lead. Adequate gear is there but it is often placed from uncomfortable positions. Fortunately it's possible to TR it with two ropes. You want to lower one rope down through the ceiling crack from above and hang a second down the front to protect the finish (e.g. same anchor as for Psychadelic).

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