Avg: 3.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 70 ft|
|Page Views:||397 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Gunkiemike on Nov 8, 2011|
As chimney routes go, this one's pretty neat. Likely hidden for years behind a large tree, which now lies in pieces at the base (cut by Park personnel). A wild line with a "bottomless" horizontal section. Update - the route does have history, as it turns out. Rich Romano, Andrew Zalewski, and perhaps others climbed this route years ago.
Follow the chimney (tight down low) to where it widens and you can crab crawl out to the west face, where an offwidth crack leads to the top.
This is a spooky but wild route to lead. Adequate gear is there but it is often placed from uncomfortable positions. Fortunately it's possible to TR it with two ropes. You want to lower one rope down through the ceiling crack from above and hang a second down the front to protect the finish (e.g. same anchor as for Psychadelic).