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Routes in m. Crevice right, and Psycho Wall

After Five TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Wallpaper T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Crack of Respendent Delights T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Dorsal Fin AKA Brain Strain T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Psychadelic T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Psyche Out TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Psycho Crack Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Psycho Crack Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yellow Wallpaper, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Mike Rawdon
Page Views: 1,399 total, 11/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Jun 8, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

This is the second best 5.9 at PK. Bring your jamming skills. Enter the chimney left of Yellow Wallpaper. Keep walking until you get to a rock in the floor that lies at a 45 degree slant. Look up to your right; you'll see a round bulge 10' up. This route follows the prominent crack that shoots straight up through the bulge and the wall above. Follow the crack past a couple scary wedged blocks until 10' below the top, make a couple steps to the right and fire through the steep juggy top-out (crux).

Protection

Not really adequate - and a fall in the chimney would be bad. Tricky TR anchor.

Photos

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This climbs much better than it looks. Aside for the last bit - which didn't seem difficult - there are plenty of opportunites for protection. Aug 22, 2013
Bryan Harris  
 
So, I take it the other wall of the chimney is off-route for this and the other face climb inside the chimney? I did this route with a friend on Saturday, but we stemmed it the whole way. Is the chimney itself a route?

Cheers,

Bryan Sep 13, 2010
The pro really is fine on this route (bring a #3 Camalot and possibly larger cam), once your eyes adjust to the darkness. There are two cruxes: the initial bulge, and the jug-haul top out. The gear for the latter is the only dicey bit. I also think it's on the light side of 5.9, but I admit that I've got it thoroughly wired. It certainly feels harder when the lighting is harsh and you can't see the holds at the initial bulge. If this thing were out in the daylight it'd be among the most popular leads at PK. Sep 1, 2009