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Routes in s. The Golden Wall

Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Chris' Cringe or Hatti's Horror TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Completely Francois TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fickle Fingers T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Golden Dream, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam On! T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Slot Machine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Stinky Americans T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Skink TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Time for Therapy T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,714 total · 42/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Dec 20, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Face/finger-crack climb followed by double roof. Two cruxes - mid-height, and very long reach through roofs.

Location

Follow discontinuous fingercrack 10 feet left of Golden Dream, through roofs.

Protection

PG pro, small stuff.

Photos

kenr  
It's a typical Gunks finger crack: Don't expect to get many good jams, be prepared to use it some other way.

Indeed the first roof is very reachy. If much less than 5ft9in, be prepared to make a serious dynamic lunge for it. Dec 4, 2012
Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
Got the onsight lead on 5/2/2010. Excellent nut placements the whole way, though at the real crux at the end of the crack, the #3 stopper is very difficult to get placed well. May 3, 2010

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