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Routes in s. The Golden Wall

Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Chris' Cringe or Hatti's Horror TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Completely Francois TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fickle Fingers T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Golden Dream, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam On! T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Slot Machine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Stinky Americans T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Skink TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Time for Therapy T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,350 total, 23/month
Shared By: doligo on Aug 13, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

10 Opinions

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Start a couple of feet left of Slot Machine (the huge off-width in the middle of the wall). A bouldery start leads to to a stance; follow a finger crack to the top (crux). It's 5.5 horizontals after the crux.


Anthony Nguyen
Anthony Nguyen   Philadelphia
I also think this is more difficult than Golden Dream, especially if you are height disadvantaged. It's also fun to climb the face with side pulls on the left arete. 9+ Nov 18, 2011
Maybe you were inadvertently on "Completely Francois" (5.10d)?

Edit - Disregard that...CF is not close enough to get involved.

I did notice that it matters which side of the vertical crack you're on. One side might be quite straightforward if you're really tall. Otherwise, you're going to have to work a bit. I'd call this 9+ the way I did it (I'm not esp. tall) but anyone who couldn't reach what I did would be in solid 5.10 territory.

Also, the start is not "a couple feet left of SM". It's almost at the arete (left end of the face). Jul 28, 2011
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Deceptively tricky crux. Personally, I thought this climb was harder than fickle fingers and golden dream. Aug 30, 2010
This route is leadable at PG. Mar 9, 2010