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Fickle Fingers

5.10b, Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 100 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Gunks > Peterskill > s. The Golden Wall

Description

Face/finger-crack climb followed by double roof. Two cruxes - mid-height, and very long reach through roofs.

Location

Follow discontinuous fingercrack 10 feet left of Golden Dream, through roofs.

Protection

PG pro, small stuff. The roof (one of the cruxes of the climb) is a bit tricky to protect well.

Two bolts at the top to set up a top rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Fickle Fingers
[Hide Photo] Fickle Fingers
Pulling the roof on a beautiful September evening.
[Hide Photo] Pulling the roof on a beautiful September evening.
Kristen on Fickle Fingers, 20 September 2015
[Hide Photo] Kristen on Fickle Fingers, 20 September 2015
Reach
[Hide Photo] Reach
Pull
[Hide Photo] Pull
Crack
[Hide Photo] Crack
Move
[Hide Photo] Move
Jugg
[Hide Photo] Jugg
Boost
[Hide Photo] Boost

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
[Hide Comment] Got the onsight lead on 5/2/2010. Excellent nut placements the whole way, though at the real crux at the end of the crack, the #3 stopper is very difficult to get placed well. May 3, 2010
kenr
[Hide Comment] It's a typical Gunks finger crack: Don't expect to get many good jams, be prepared to use it some other way.

Indeed the first roof is very reachy. If much less than 5ft9in, be prepared to make a serious dynamic lunge for it. Dec 4, 2012