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Routes in s. The Golden Wall

Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Chris' Cringe or Hatti's Horror TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Completely Francois TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fickle Fingers T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Golden Dream, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam On! T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Slot Machine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Stinky Americans T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Skink TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Time for Therapy T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,429 total, 48/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Dec 20, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


45 Opinions

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Description

Grovel, grovel, and grovel some more in this full-body offwidth. Crux, for many, is just moving up - not everyone can climb offwidth.

Location

Climb the big, obvious offwidth crack 10 feet left of Fickle Fingers and 20 feet left of Golden Dream. Route goes to the right of the large chockstone at the top. Easy walk-off.

Protection

Decent gear, especially off to the sides. Gear-only anchor at the top.

Photos

David Kerkeslager
Brooklyn, NY
 
David Kerkeslager   Brooklyn, NY
 
Placing gear out of the lieback would be extraordinarily hard. I imagine whoever rated this 5.6 either climbed it on TR or did it as an offwidth (which seemed harder to me, but I have less experience with this sort of climbing). Nov 14, 2017
Jonathan Keller
  5.6 R
Jonathan Keller  
  5.6 R
I climbed this as an offwidth. Also, there is a heavy rock about 30 feet back from the top that nicely accepts a static line for a TR anchor. Sep 17, 2017
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
I placed the first 3 pieces on the wall to the left which was very convenient and kept the rope away from my feet. Jun 10, 2016
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
  5.6
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
  5.6
I didn't find the gear to be awful or terribly sparse. I placed 5 or 6 pieces, and the only real run-out was the first bulge. I think PG/13 is a fair warning. Not perfect, but also not a death defying lack of gear.

After the runout, a #2BD fits very well, tucked back underneath an outcrop in the crack. You could haul wide gear up, but it would seem a little silly. It's also a lieback, rather than OW, unless you like making things harder than they should be. May 28, 2013
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I didn't see the "decent" gear as described above. It's an offwidth the entire way, with very little gear. A #5 is too small to protect the offwidth. I would not lead this climb, as I don't think it takes great pro. The climbing is easy (think lay back the entire way)and there are a couple of horizontals. But, you are going to solo a LONG way before you get in any pro. Fun to TR, good for moderately experienced newbs. Aug 30, 2010