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Routes in s. The Golden Wall

Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Chris' Cringe or Hatti's Horror TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Completely Francois TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fickle Fingers T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Golden Dream, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam On! T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Slot Machine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Stinky Americans T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Skink TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Time for Therapy T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Mike Rawdon
Page Views: 3,173 total, 24/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Dec 20, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Fun, slightly overhanging fist jam in corner.

Location

Same wall as Super Skink; to the right, there's a small alcove in the corner. Climb obvious hand-fist crack at left of alcove. Route starts in alcove.

Protection

G-GP pro, if you can unpump long enough to place it. Gear-only anchor at top - do NOT use the Pitch Pines.

Photos

The back RIGHT-hand corner of the alcove (i.e. about 8 ft right of this route) is an overhanging off-width/squeeze chimney that goes at 5.8 or so. It is really "snug", and if you go too high, you probably will get stuck. So exit out to the front at your earliest opportunity. Warning - it's not the sort of route you'll be in a hurry to do again. Ever. May 16, 2011