Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Mike Rawdon
Page Views: 3,392 total · 23/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Dec 20, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Fun, slightly overhanging fist jam in corner.

Location

Same wall as Super Skink; to the right, there's a small alcove in the corner. Climb obvious hand-fist crack at left of alcove. Route starts in alcove.

Protection

G-GP pro, if you can unpump long enough to place it. Gear-only anchor at top - do NOT use the Pitch Pines.

Photos

The back RIGHT-hand corner of the alcove (i.e. about 8 ft right of this route) is an overhanging off-width/squeeze chimney that goes at 5.8 or so. It is really "snug", and if you go too high, you probably will get stuck. So exit out to the front at your earliest opportunity. Warning - it's not the sort of route you'll be in a hurry to do again. Ever. May 16, 2011
David Kerkeslager
New Paltz, NY
  5.5
David Kerkeslager   New Paltz, NY
  5.5
I did this hoping to get some jams in, but found it much more comfortable to just lieback the crack--the angle makes this actually less strenuous. Maybe all the folks who tried to hand jam are why this is rated 5.7 right now? Nov 6, 2018