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Routes in s. The Golden Wall

Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Chris' Cringe or Hatti's Horror TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Completely Francois TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fickle Fingers T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Golden Dream, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam On! T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Slot Machine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Stinky Americans T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Skink TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Time for Therapy T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: 2011
Page Views: 201 total, 3/month
Shared By: Gunkiemike on Sep 3, 2012
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

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Recommended as a toprope only, as there is no gear to keep your body out of the boulder jumble if you blow the cruxy slab moves under the roof. But it has been led. Start at the base of the arete on a pointed block. Immediately start angling right onto the slab. When you get to the roof, traverse left to the obvious jam crack that cleaves the bulge.


Go left into the canyon that is south (left) of the Golden Dreams face. You'll see the profile of the route on the right. A good view can be had from atop the Skink block (see the route photo)


Gear and/or trees for the anchor. Best to hang the rope a few feet to the right of the crack through the bulge, or else a fall off the slab will swing the climber onto something hard below. If falls are likely, two ropes might not be a bad idea.