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Routes in s. The Golden Wall

Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Chris' Cringe or Hatti's Horror TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Completely Francois TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fickle Fingers T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Golden Dream, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam On! T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Slot Machine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Stinky Americans T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Skink TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Time for Therapy T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: Mike Rawdon
Page Views: 1,667 total, 12/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Dec 20, 2006
Admins: JSH

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Description

A high-angle slab, face climb from hell. This route wanders for 10-15 feet back and forth as you struggle to connect the crystals that form your only holds. If you're short (i.e., not 5'9"), you might not even be able to start this climb; at 5'6", I couldn't even get off the ground. Named Super Skink because, as the FA said, "It's totally sandbagged at 5.10; more like 5.10d or harder".

Location

This route is on the face on the OTHER side of the Golden Dream route; go through the squeeze hole to the right. The route starts on top of some stacked blocks/ledges, about 6-8 feet off the ground; go up for about 8 feet, then traverse right under the small roof for about 10-15 feet; go up about 5 feet, then traverse left for about 10-15 feet; go up to top.

Protection

There is absolutely no gear whatsoever. Use the bolts for the Golden Dream to provide an anchor.

Photos

OK, so it's more like 10b, assuming you can reach the horizontal at the right end of the traverse. Oct 23, 2011