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Routes in s. The Golden Wall

Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Chris' Cringe or Hatti's Horror TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Completely Francois TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fickle Fingers T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Golden Dream, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam On! T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Slot Machine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Stinky Americans T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Skink TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Time for Therapy T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
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Type: TR, 35 ft
FA: Chris Moratz, Hatti Langsford and party
Page Views: 558 total · 14/month
Shared By: Chris Moratz on Jul 31, 2015
Admins: JSH

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See route photo for Super Skink: start just left of where Super Skink starts. A couple of hard moves get you off the pedestal and up to the overlap. Move left from there to the arête. Beautiful climbing up the arête to the top.


Around the corner (right) of Golden Dream -- start about 15 feet right of the arête.


Toprope from the Golden Dream bolts, with directional. It would be R/X to lead.


Chris Moratz
Chris Moratz  
(comment moved from Super Skink) We did a line in May of this year just left of Super Skink that starts roughly where it does (a bit left) then up and left to reach the arête and up the arête from there. Very fun climb.
Consensus was 5.7 or 5.8. We called it "Chris' Cringe."
Has anyone done it?
Along with our party were me (Chris Moratz) my wife Hatti Langsford, David Wilkes, Marcy Bernstein, Jannette Pazer, Matt, Bodhi Densmore, and Betsy Gelvin.
If this was seemingly an FA, perhaps it could be added as its own line, definitely worth doing! Jul 21, 2015
The arete (starting from the bottom of it) is "Cutting Edge" 5.8 R/X. Originally climbed on TR 3-4 years ago. Look for it in the new PK guidebook that (fingers crossed) should be out this fall. Sep 7, 2015
David Kerkeslager
New Paltz, NY
David Kerkeslager   New Paltz, NY
The traverse around the roof has one of those not-super-strenuous but super-balancy moves that's hard to grade. Feels sandbagged to me at 5.8 but I can't imagine people rushing to lead it so who cares. :) Aug 26, 2018

More About Chris' Cringe or Hatti's Horror