Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Aug 2012 Nyle Baker
Page Views: 2,004 total · 20/month
Shared By: Gunkiemike on May 25, 2011
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

Tucked back in the canyon left of the Golden Dreams wall is a broad arete with a vertical seam down low that leads to a very inviting jam crack through a bulge. Scamper up onto the Skink block for a great look at this (see photo). The initial seam is a fun enough aid line (C2, tiny gear of all kinds and a hook move), but this was freed recently at 5.13a. Whichever way you do it, you're bound to enjoy the crack above (9+ or maybe 10a).

Location

Enter the canyon left of Stinky Americans and you see the arete on the right about 30 ft ahead of you. Start at the base of the arete, on a pointed boulder.

Protection

The left-arching seam on the arete takes tiny gear and feels like PG. The crack above takes normal stuff.

Photos