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Routes in s. The Golden Wall

Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Chris' Cringe or Hatti's Horror TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Completely Francois TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fickle Fingers T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Golden Dream, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam On! T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Slot Machine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Stinky Americans T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Skink TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Time for Therapy T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Aug 2012 Nyle Baker
Page Views: 1,648 total, 21/month
Shared By: Gunkiemike on May 25, 2011
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

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Tucked back in the canyon left of the Golden Dreams wall is a broad arete with a vertical seam down low that leads to a very inviting jam crack through a bulge. Scamper up onto the Skink block for a great look at this (see photo). The initial seam is a fun enough aid line (C2, tiny gear of all kinds and a hook move), but this was freed recently at 5.13a. Whichever way you do it, you're bound to enjoy the crack above (9+ or maybe 10a).


Enter the canyon left of Stinky Americans and you see the arete on the right about 30 ft ahead of you. Start at the base of the arete, on a pointed boulder.


The left-arching seam on the arete takes tiny gear and feels like PG. The crack above takes normal stuff.


Nice job!! Aug 24, 2012
Yeah, the bottom seam was freed in a ground up effort. Likely 13a or so... has video of a failed attempt.... Aug 23, 2012
Saw chalk on the seam. Did this go free? Sep 12, 2011