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Slot Machine

5.6 PG13, Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 83 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Gunks > Peterskill > s. The Golden Wall

Description

Grovel, grovel, and grovel some more in this full-body offwidth. Crux, for many, is just moving up - not everyone can climb offwidth.

If you hate offwidths, this line can also be climbed with just hands in the main crack, finding small fee throughout the pebbly rocks on either side.

Location

Climb the big, obvious offwidth crack 10 feet left of Fickle Fingers and 20 feet left of Golden Dream. Route goes to the right of the large chockstone at the top. Easy walk-off.

Protection

Decent gear, especially off to the sides. Gear-only anchor at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The route viewed from the Skink anchor.
[Hide Photo] The route viewed from the Skink anchor.
Side pull and walk all the way up the opposite face
[Hide Photo] Side pull and walk all the way up the opposite face
Slot Machine
[Hide Photo] Slot Machine

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Gail Blauer
Gardiner, NY
[Hide Comment] I didn't see the "decent" gear as described above. It's an offwidth the entire way, with very little gear. A #5 is too small to protect the offwidth. I would not lead this climb, as I don't think it takes great pro. The climbing is easy (think lay back the entire way)and there are a couple of horizontals. But, you are going to solo a LONG way before you get in any pro. Fun to TR, good for moderately experienced newbs. Aug 30, 2010
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
  5.6
[Hide Comment] I didn't find the gear to be awful or terribly sparse. I placed 5 or 6 pieces, and the only real run-out was the first bulge. I think PG/13 is a fair warning. Not perfect, but also not a death defying lack of gear.

After the runout, a #2BD fits very well, tucked back underneath an outcrop in the crack. You could haul wide gear up, but it would seem a little silly. It's also a lieback, rather than OW, unless you like making things harder than they should be. May 28, 2013
Kurtz
Fort Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I placed the first 3 pieces on the wall to the left which was very convenient and kept the rope away from my feet. Jun 10, 2016
Jonathan Keller
Fresh Meadows, NY
  5.6 R
[Hide Comment] I climbed this as an offwidth. Also, there is a heavy rock about 30 feet back from the top that nicely accepts a static line for a TR anchor. Sep 17, 2017
Roshan Soondar
New Rochelle New York
 
[Hide Comment] A ways back from the top there's a solid horizontal crack that takes gear and works for a TR with a long static. Apr 6, 2021