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Routes in l. Cuckoo's Nest and the Crevice

1-800-Stick-It Arete TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cuckoo's Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
It Ain't All It's Crack'd Up To Be T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Land of the Lost, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Ripper, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,553 total, 12/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Jan 25, 2007
Admins: JSH

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Description

Including for completeness sake. Never seen anyone actually climb this one.

Location

Climb the middle of the Cuckoo's Nest wall's face, directly under slightly lower roof at top. Escape roof right up into higher roof, escape higher roof left, straight up to top. Easy walk-off.

Protection

Unknown - looks to be pretty sparse, if any at all. Gear-only anchor on top.

Photos

This climb is really fun! We did it today: a couple things to keep an eye out for:

The anchoring is a bit of work at the top. Avoid big cams on the left anchor point. Messy.

There are a bunch of boulders on the first big shelf near the top. All very unattached and willing to be knocked over!

It canbe made a tad easier if you swing out the the right. Oct 16, 2011
There are two ways to do this climb: start 8' left of the arete (i.e. what the book says) and weave through the upper hangs. Some folks, including myself, feel there's nothing close to 5.11 on this line. More like 10a/b, and depending on your style of climbing, you may find the crux to be either on the face or at the overhangs. The second option is to start left of center of the face and follow thinner flakes up, aiming for, and eventually climbing over the overhang at an obvious 1 inch crack. That exit move is certainly 5.11, but it also certainly is not what Wilson describes in his guidebook. My advice? Do them both! The face climbing, as I posted above, is stellar. Sep 21, 2011
Troy McCormick
New York
 
Troy McCormick   New York
 
Really fun route! Setting up a TR anchor requires a bit of rigging but it's worth it. Jan 21, 2011
The guide book is a bit confusing regarding this route - the text description and the beta photo do not really match. I climbed it based on the beta photo and thought it was an excellent climb. Aug 23, 2010
The reason to do this route is because the lower face is an excellent series of moves and puzzles, clocking in at 5.9+. As such, it just may be the best pure face climbing at PK. The 11 presumably comes as you navigate the offset overhangs at the top. Note - the line up the face is right of where it's drawn on the photo. Sep 1, 2009