Elevation: 1,207 ft
GPS: 41.745, -74.215 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 35,890 total · 408/month
Shared By: Gunkiemike on May 8, 2013 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: RJ B
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

Let us know what you think of the "new" area within Peterskill (opened April 2013! Thank the Gunks Climbers' Coalition for their sustained efforts towards this access).

A bit of nomenclature to keep the discussion useful: from left to right the cliff is broken into 5 very general sections:

1) The Bullwheel Faces - the short faces approximately within sight of the concrete block atop the old ski hill.

2) The Playground - from the pair of huge white pine trees rightwards to the huge, imposing roof. The roof has a couple projects but apparently no completed routes yet.

3) The Clamshell Wall - the tall face that is mostly grey, with many horizontals. It sorta resembles the Trapps and the left end of it starts 7 ft above a large rectangular boulder. There are about 8 distinct lines that mostly follow vertical cracks/grooves and 6 bolted anchors at various spots across the top.

4) The Fortress - from the Clamshell rightwards to the other huge imposing ceiling that is close to the blue trail. The Fortress features steep rock and mostly difficult lines.

5) The Right End - the huge roof to the end of the cliff.

As with so many PK routes, a length of static rope (60 ft) is often essential. Tread lightly and protect the trees, please.

Getting There

... is a 12 minute walk. Go between the East and West cliffs, follow the road behind the Breakfast Wall, then follow signs to the Bullwheel Trail. Access trails around Dickie Barre are flagged with light green tape. The scramble to get up top is to the left of the Bullwheel Faces. There's also a low angle section just right of the Clamshell Wall; go up there to access the top of all Fortress and Right End routes.

23 Total Climbs

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Location: z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK cliff) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK cliff)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 10
Departure
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 16
Fine Pine Line
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 13
On Another Man's Wound
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
The Rook
Trad, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 18
Windy City
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Don't Tease Me Bro
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 24
Bolt Line
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Ariel's Brassiere
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 8
Hardware Route
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 4
Illinois Flake
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Hooker
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 5
Dharmakaya
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Departure b. The Playground
 10
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Fine Pine Line b. The Playground
 16
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
On Another Man's Wound c. The Clamshell Wall
 13
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
The Rook b. The Playground
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Windy City c. The Clamshell Wall
 18
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, TR
Don't Tease Me Bro a. The Bullwheel Faces
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Bolt Line c. The Clamshell Wall
 24
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Ariel's Brassiere c. The Clamshell Wall
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Hardware Route b. The Playground
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, TR
Illinois Flake b. The Playground
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad, TR
Hooker c. The Clamshell Wall
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Dharmakaya b. The Playground
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad
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