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Elevation: 1,207 ft 368 m
GPS: 41.74333, -74.21175
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 60,347 total · 449/month
Shared By: Gunkiemike on May 8, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

Description Suggest change

Let us know what you think of the "new" area within Peterskill (opened April 2013! Thank the Gunks Climbers' Coalition for their sustained efforts towards this access).

A bit of nomenclature to keep the discussion useful: from left to right the cliff is broken into 5 very general sections:

1) The Bullwheel Faces - the short faces approximately within sight of the concrete block atop the old ski hill.

2) The Playground - from the pair of huge white pine trees rightwards to the huge, imposing roof. The roof has a couple projects but apparently no completed routes yet.

3) The Clamshell Wall - the tall face that is mostly grey, with many horizontals. It sorta resembles the Trapps and the left end of it starts 7 ft above a large rectangular boulder. There are about 8 distinct lines that mostly follow vertical cracks/grooves and 6 bolted anchors at various spots across the top.

4) The Fortress - from the Clamshell rightwards to the other huge imposing ceiling that is close to the blue trail. The Fortress features steep rock and mostly difficult lines.

5) The Right End - the huge roof to the end of the cliff.

As with so many PK routes, a length of static rope (60 ft) is often essential. Tread lightly and protect the trees, please.

Getting There Suggest change

... is a 12 minute walk. Go between the East and West cliffs, follow the road behind the Breakfast Wall, then follow signs to the Bullwheel Trail. Access trails around Dickie Barre are flagged with light green tape. The scramble to get up top is to the left of the Bullwheel Faces. There's also a low angle section just right of the Clamshell Wall; go up there to access the top of all Fortress and Right End routes.

30 Total Climbs

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Location: z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK cliff) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK cliff)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
 4
Stubway
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 25
Departure
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 32
Fine Pine Line
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 31
On Another Man's Wound
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
The Rook
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 6
Little Neck-y
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 34
Windy City
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Don't Tease Me Bro
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 50
Bolt Line
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Ariel's Brassiere
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 21
Hardware Route
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Mantle Peace
TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 12
Illinois Flake
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 16
Hooker
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 21
Dharmakaya
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Stubway c. The Clamshell Wall
 4
Trad, TR
Departure b. The Playground
 25
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Fine Pine Line b. The Playground
 32
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
On Another Man's Wound c. The Clamshell Wall
 31
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
The Rook b. The Playground
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Little Neck-y c. The Clamshell Wall
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Windy City c. The Clamshell Wall
 34
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, TR
Don't Tease Me Bro a. The Bullwheel Faces
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Bolt Line c. The Clamshell Wall
 50
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Ariel's Brassiere c. The Clamshell Wall
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Hardware Route b. The Playground
 21
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, TR
Mantle Peace a. The Bullwheel Faces
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Illinois Flake b. The Playground
 12
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad, TR
Hooker c. The Clamshell Wall
 16
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Dharmakaya b. The Playground
 21
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK cliff) »

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