z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK cliff) Rock Climbing
|GPS:||41.745, -74.215 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Gunkiemike on May 8, 2013 · Updates|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
A bit of nomenclature to keep the discussion useful: from left to right the cliff is broken into 5 very general sections:
1) The Bullwheel Faces - the short faces approximately within sight of the concrete block atop the old ski hill.
2) The Playground - from the pair of huge white pine trees rightwards to the huge, imposing roof. The roof has a couple projects but apparently no completed routes yet.
3) The Clamshell Wall - the tall face that is mostly grey, with many horizontals. It sorta resembles the Trapps and the left end of it starts 7 ft above a large rectangular boulder. There are about 8 distinct lines that mostly follow vertical cracks/grooves and 6 bolted anchors at various spots across the top.
4) The Fortress - from the Clamshell rightwards to the other huge imposing ceiling that is close to the blue trail. The Fortress features steep rock and mostly difficult lines.
5) The Right End - the huge roof to the end of the cliff.
As with so many PK routes, a length of static rope (60 ft) is often essential. Tread lightly and protect the trees, please.
Classic Climbing Routes at z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK cliff)
Days w Precip