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Routes in b. The Playground

Departure T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dharmakaya T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fine Pine Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rook, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,185 total, 40/month
Shared By: Michael G on May 9, 2013
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Climb the crack up to a roof. I exited left, but it seems as if you can also exit right.

Location

Clean crack capped by a large roof in the Playground area.

Protection

nuts and cams make it G. You can build an anchor at the top, or go waaay back to find a tree that isn't a pitch pine.

Photos

Steven Cherry
  5.7
Steven Cherry  
  5.7
We thought 5.6+, but arguably closer to 5.7 than 5.6. The gear is impeccable, but there's a bit of loose rock (easily avoided) at the final exit. Aug 9, 2015
Will Cohen
  5.6
Will Cohen  
  5.6
Really enjoyed this route. I followed then led it, so I was able to find a key hold that made the crux stance far more comfortable on my lead attempt. The gear is all there, albeit small at the crux. This would feel 5.7 on an onsight attempt, but after finding the key holds it's in the 5.6 realm. May 7, 2014
Eriks Rozners
Binghamton, NY
  5.6
Eriks Rozners   Binghamton, NY
  5.6
The crack takes tricams, small nuts and small cams. There are plenty of placement options, but some skill is needed to protect the crux as the stance is less comfortable than desired. The crux move may be a bit tricky to figure out right away, so we agreed on 5.6+ in the spirit of Gunks grading :o))) May 4, 2014