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Routes in f. Off Limits & Reach Around Walls

Around Already TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bent Crankarm T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Broken Pedals T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack-A-Lack TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
First Day T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
How It's Done T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Off Limits T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Reach Around T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,090 total · 29/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Dec 28, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


53 Opinions

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Description

Excellent route in a right-facing corner system, with two cruxes.

Location

Start in a right-facing corner approx 50 feet right of First Day; the base of the cliff is somewhat open there. Follow corner system through two roofs to the top.

Protection

Adequate. Bolted anchor at top of cliff. Easy walkoff.

Photos

Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY
  5.8
Logan Schiff   Brooklyn, NY
  5.8
Pro is good. You can place solid cams under the roof and after pulling around the roof from a good if slightly awkward stance before scooting up. Jul 14, 2013
Fun easy climb...good pros. Found a copperhead on the left ledge right after pulling the roof. Jul 26, 2013
David Kerkeslager
New Paltz, NY
  5.7
David Kerkeslager   New Paltz, NY
  5.7
So far everyone I've seen lead this route trends left after the "reach around" roof, following the path of least resistance. This drops you off at the top of the cliff about 6 feet left of the bolted anchors.

However, top roping this to clean, I discovered that trending right after the reach around yields what I consider a nicer ending sequence that drops you off at the bolts. If I lead this again I'll do it that way. Jun 26, 2018

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