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Routes in f. Tom's Wall & Next West Face

Around Already TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bent Crankarm T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Broken Pedals T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack-A-Lack TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
First Day T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
How It's Done T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Off Limits T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Reach Around T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: TR, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,044 total, 23/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Dec 28, 2006
Admins: JSH

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Description

Thin and facey, then thin and traversy, then thin and bulgy. Regardless, it's... scarce. The route isn't too bad up to the traverse and small roof, but the crux is tres difficult.

Location

Start in corner of open book, traverse right up obvious crack in face to small right overhang, go right two feet, up through roof to top.

Protection

Unknown. Gear anchor, or use bolts from Reach Around and use a directional. DO NOT attempt to run this route off only the Reach Around bolts; the higher you get, the worse your pendulum will be. Case in point -- I saw someone pull the crux, come off, and break their ankle when they hit the right-facing corner of Reach Around.

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Patrick Boyle
Boston, MA
Patrick Boyle   Boston, MA
Probably my favorite PK climb. Solid and continuous climbing up to the roof with some balancey moves. Easy traverse serves as a great rest before the crux going over the roof, very nice flake about wrist deep under the roof is a perfect right hand, high left foot and left hip on the wall leads to nice left hand crimp and bump to a left hand pocket. Two more somewhat challenging 5.10 moves and then juggy to the finish. Bolted but I prefer to build an anchor so as to avoid the swing into the roof if you fall at the crux, jammed a finger and ruined a few weeks of climbing doing exactly that. For anyone starting to cruise 5.9s this is A GREAT 5.10 PROJECT and feels great to finish. Sep 13, 2015
Doesn't deserve the R. The face is fun and has ample pro, and the traverse is simple. When pulling the roof, place pro in the first pocket once you are finished with it...then pull and have some fun. Jun 2, 2013
Stevie Lo  
 
At the crux, there is a crumbly two finger crimp to a two finger slot, with little feet. Difficult and fun, but expect a whipper. You should leave some slack on the line when heading into the small traverse and roof. As you want to fall below the ankle breaker, if in fact you do fall. Jul 4, 2009