Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Mike Newman
Page Views: 5,934 total · 41/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Dec 20, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

66 Opinions

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This is in the guidebook at 5.6, and is one of the biggest sandbags I've ever seen at that grade - IF you're under 5'9". If you're tall, it'll go perhaps 5.7. If you're short, it goes 5.8 easily. It took me two years to figure out, and the move I use isn't at all obvious.


On the flat wall (large, detached block) to left of Golden Dream/Slot Machine. Climb left-facing flake and face above. Can stand on top of flake and move right ~5' if needsbe. Climbing straight through (direct) without standing on flake is possible, but will go 5.9 if you're short, 5.8 if you're tall. Easy walk-off.


G-PG pro, depending on which way you go up. Opening moves are TRES scary, with nasty fall; good idea to have spotter or crashpad. Double-bolted anchor at top.
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I am not sure how you could call this a G or PG climb if you are a shorty. You have to make the crux move off the ledge with pro at your feet. If you blow the move then you hit the ledge. I TR'd this with a large group of climbers. They had a full range of experience from newb to 10+ climbers. None of the newish climbers could make the move off the ledge. The tallest climbers (6 ft) were able to easily make the moves. As a 5'2" 10 climber, I was able to make the moves, using a super high foot and matching on a tiny tiny crimp below the bomber horizontal. I would not have enjoyed leading it, the moves were only protected at my feet. Truth be told, this climb really annoyed most of the climbers in our party. It's only a 6, but most could not do it. Aug 30, 2010
AWinters   NH  
this is gunks 5.7 Nov 24, 2010
The start of the hand-traverse is perhaps a bit more than 5 ft to the right. Pretty delicate to get into it, if much less than 5ft8in.

Nice collection of interesting moves. Dec 4, 2012
Jonathan Keller
Fresh Meadows, NY
Jonathan Keller   Fresh Meadows, NY
Im 5'7", and moves are out of reach. Not a 5.7 if you're average height or shorter. Sep 17, 2017
It’s a 5.7 that assumes you’re tall and experienced Aug 2, 2018