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Routes in r. Lou's Wall

Canyon Slot T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Scoop Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scoop Face T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Skink T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Skink Redirect TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
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Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Mike Newman
Page Views: 5,778 total · 41/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Dec 20, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


61 Opinions

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Description

This is in the guidebook at 5.6, and is one of the biggest sandbags I've ever seen at that grade - IF you're under 5'9". If you're tall, it'll go perhaps 5.7. If you're short, it goes 5.8 easily. It took me two years to figure out, and the move I use isn't at all obvious.

Location

On the flat wall (large, detached block) to left of Golden Dream/Slot Machine. Climb left-facing flake and face above. Can stand on top of flake and move right ~5' if needsbe. Climbing straight through (direct) without standing on flake is possible, but will go 5.9 if you're short, 5.8 if you're tall. Easy walk-off.

Protection

G-PG pro, depending on which way you go up. Opening moves are TRES scary, with nasty fall; good idea to have spotter or crashpad. Double-bolted anchor at top.
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I am not sure how you could call this a G or PG climb if you are a shorty. You have to make the crux move off the ledge with pro at your feet. If you blow the move then you hit the ledge. I TR'd this with a large group of climbers. They had a full range of experience from newb to 10+ climbers. None of the newish climbers could make the move off the ledge. The tallest climbers (6 ft) were able to easily make the moves. As a 5'2" 10 climber, I was able to make the moves, using a super high foot and matching on a tiny tiny crimp below the bomber horizontal. I would not have enjoyed leading it, the moves were only protected at my feet. Truth be told, this climb really annoyed most of the climbers in our party. It's only a 6, but most could not do it. Aug 30, 2010
AWinters
NH
  5.7
AWinters   NH  
  5.7
this is gunks 5.7 Nov 24, 2010
kenr
  5.8+
kenr  
  5.8+
The start of the hand-traverse is perhaps a bit more than 5 ft to the right. Pretty delicate to get into it, if much less than 5ft8in.

Nice collection of interesting moves. Dec 4, 2012
Jonathan Keller  
5.9-
Im 5'7", and moves are out of reach. Not a 5.7 if you're average height or shorter. Sep 17, 2017

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