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Routes in g. Enterprise Wall

Beam Me Up Scotty T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Captain's Log T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hanky T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kling-On, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Panky TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spock TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
T.P. T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Under Kling-On, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Vulcanology T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,322 total · 17/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Jan 4, 2007
Admins: JSH

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37 Opinions

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Description

A "slab" climb with a very tricky start; I've seen 5.5 leaders back off this route, as the starting move isn't well-protected. I've also seen several people continue straight up the face, while the route actually goes up and left; you can wander into some distinctly not 5.4 territory if you're not careful (see discussion in comments). There's a shelf with some greenery in it, nearly at the top; you want to stay left of that.

Location

Start on top of the block at base of the face; climb obvious seam to the top, trending left. Easy walk-off.

Protection

Pro is adequate, but can be fiddly to place. Bolts 10' back from the top.

Photos

Valerie Ann
West Sand Lake, NY
 
Valerie Ann   West Sand Lake, NY
 
A little hard to toprope due to how the route wanders left and right up the wall. We remedied this be just going straight up over the bulge(5.5) near the top. Jul 10, 2010
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.4
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.4
Skip it and lap Kling-on instead.

If you top rope it, I'd suggest going straight up the middle of the face and make it a 5.5-5.6 climb with a nice bulge near the end. The route probably stays far left on the wall and the swing off the anchor would be ouch, even with whatever directional you could manage to place. Jul 12, 2010
Lead up it, had the second clear it and the third TR it. First move is definitely the crux, but not a bad climb after that. Like everyone else said, decent gear (only my third gear lead), relatively easy moves, just watch the swing at the top if you are top roping and your climber isn't as experienced. Would recommend if you are like me and using Peterskill as a trad-practice area. Sep 24, 2012
Artie Morenz
  5.5
Artie Morenz  
  5.5
I don't understand why the description says the starting move is hard to protect. There is a vertical crack at the start that is EZ to protect with cams. Fun climb. Jun 17, 2015
4th St  
One simply can't imagine a "5.5" leader" backing off this climb.

Like some others in Peterskill, it's a bit over-rated relative to the Trapps. Is ideal for a beginning leader. Dec 8, 2017
Eriks Rozners
Binghamton, NY
  5.5
Eriks Rozners   Binghamton, NY
  5.5
This is an excellent and relatively easy to protect climb. I did not feel that the crux at the start was too hard for the grade, may be just mental. However, the straight up finish, which is how the most recent Marty Molitoris and Mike Rawdon guidebook draws it, had some thought provoking moves that were in the 5.5-5.6 territory. I did not go left, so I cannot comment on the quality of climbing there, but the straight up finish was really nice and recommended, just not 5.4. May 14, 2018
Eriks - sorry about that line in the guidebook; we did not intend to describe a direct finish. The text description is more accurate: finish a few feet right of the arete. That keeps the grade reasonable. But FWIW most folks who toprope this route do finish more "directly" simply due to the position of their rope. May 15, 2018

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