Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,798 total · 33/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Jan 4, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

70 Opinions

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Tricky start with a thin crux and an honest-to-goodness "naughty finger-pocket", this route is the best on the wall. If you avoid the crux by moving left or right, it's not nearly as interesting.


Climb the obvious dihedral to right of Captain's Log. Easy walk-off.


Never led it; the pro looks acceptable. All gear anchor or double-bolted anchor; the DBA is better-used on the routes to the right, so build your own.


The tree shown in the photo at the base of the route is no longer there, a victim of climbers' feet no doubt. May 3, 2010
Valerie A.B.
Las Vegas, NV
Valerie A.B.   Las Vegas, NV
A fun climb! Jul 10, 2010
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
Variety of face moves and stemming techniques used to get to the ceiling/bulge (crux), then a couple exposed moves and slopey feet to get over. Very exhilerating. One of the better climbs I've done at Peter's Kill. Jul 12, 2010
Washingtonville NY
H..   Washingtonville NY
the pro is good. can sink a nut in at the crux, and easy to bail to easier terrain if you get sketched. Jun 27, 2013
David Kerkeslager
New Paltz, NY
David Kerkeslager   New Paltz, NY
A (shorter) climbing partner pointed out that the sinker nut at the crux actually is only reachable if you are tall.

It was a fun route. A good prep for other Gunks dihedrals. Jul 11, 2018