Type: Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 10 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 44,453 total · 390/month
Shared By: J tot on Oct 19, 2014
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Climb the first 4 pitches of the normal "Dark Shadows" build your last belay at the furthest right of the three anchors.

P5) Clip a bolt and head up. Pull an easy roof/bulge and follow the crack up and left. Some squeeze chimney (or face climbing) will put you on a small detached tower with two rusty old bolts. Recommend a gear anchor in cracks/huecos at the back (wide hand size pieces for anchor).

P6) Path of least resistance up the chimney behind the tower. After passing a short roof on its right (~50' from belay) head up and left eventually finding one new and one old bolt on low angle face to belay off of. (can be backed up with thin gear).

P7) follow the crack up and slightly right, placing thin gear. Build a belay on the varnished bench 20'-30' below an obvious roof. Gear takes big nuts and ~1" size cams (or that was just what I had).

P8/9) Climb off the ledge and pass the roof on its right. Head up and easy flaring hand crack and hit a series of bushy ledges. (potentially belay here with a 60M). Launch off of these ledges up some steep (for the grade) cracks for another 30'-40' and belay on a comfy varnished ledge with a two bolt anchors. ONLY ONE HAS A HANGER (Oct. 2014)!

P9/10) Climb the right facing dihedral and when it rounds off to the left, go straight up the varnished face and into the cracked roof above. Massive jugs make pulling this roof consistent for the grade. Cruise up low angle flaring hand crack for many more feet to find yourself at a well cairned massive ledge. Easiest belay is off one of the big trees. Might be tight with a 60M.

Location Suggest change

Start the normal first four pitches of Dark Shadows and keep going.

Finish on a big ledge. With cairns. To get down you still have several hundred feet of easy 5th free soloing or adventurous/wandering/easy leading to the summit. Head a little up and a bit left to a left facing dihedral hand crack with a cairn (Oct. 2014) to start the last ascent to the summit.

Descent (Updated Sept 2022):

The descent options have evolved (and continue to evolve). Good information in the comments (better than I could post here). If anyone has a comprehensive description for North and/or south, DM me.

Protection Suggest change

Possible on a single rack with runout and a strong leader. Otherwise bring a double to 2" or 3".