Dark Shadows (Full)
Avg: 3.5 from 69 votes
Routes in Mescalito
|Bed of Nails T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Black Widow Hollow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Bloodline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|C11H17NO3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Cat in the Hat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Cat in the Phat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Centerfold T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Chasing Shadows T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Cookie Monster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Crunchy Cat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13|
|Dark Shadows T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Dark Shadows (Full) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Deep Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Edge Dressing T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Excellent Adventure T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R|
|Extra Credit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Heart of Darkness T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Left of Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Mescalito - Original Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Mescalito - South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Negro Blanco T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Next Century, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|OB Button T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|OB Fist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Parental Guidance T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R|
|Pauligk Pillar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Pauline's Pentacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Peyote Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Pine Nuts T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Rabbit's Arete T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Risky Business T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Sandstone Sandwich T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Short Circuit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Slot Machine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Splitting Hares T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|This Ain't No Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Too Many Tantrums T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Unknown (Thing 1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Walker Spur, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Wasp, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Welcome to Red Rocks T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|When A Stranger Calls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Y2K T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 1000 ft, 10 pitches|
|Page Views:||12,256 total, 326/month|
|Shared By:||J tot on Oct 19, 2014|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionClimb the first 4 pitches of the normal "Dark Shadows" build your last belay at the furthest right of the three anchors.
P5) Clip a bolt and head up. Pull an easy roof/bulge and follow the crack up and left. Some squeeze chimney (or face climbing) will put you on a small detached tower with two rusty old bolts. Recommend a gear anchor in cracks/huecos at the back (wide hand size pieces for anchor).
P6) Path of least resistance up the chimney behind the tower. After passing a short roof on its right (~50' from belay) head up and left eventually finding one new and one old bolt on low angle face to belay off of. (can be backed up with thin gear).
P7) follow the crack up and slightly right, placing thin gear. Build a belay on the varnished bench 20'-30' below an obvious roof. Gear takes big nuts and ~1" size cams (or that was just what I had).
P8/9) Climb off the ledge and pass the roof on its right. Head up and easy flaring hand crack and hit a series of bushy ledges. (potentially belay here with a 60M). Launch off of these ledges up some steep (for the grade) cracks for another 30'-40' and belay on a comfy varnished ledge with a two bolt anchors. ONLY ONE HAS A HANGER (Oct. 2014)!
P9/10) Climb the right facing dihedral and when it rounds off to the left, go straight up the varnished face and into the cracked roof above. Massive jugs make pulling this roof consistent for the grade. Cruise up low angle flaring hand crack for many more feet to find yourself at a well cairned massive ledge. Easiest belay is off one of the big trees. Might be tight with a 60M.
LocationStart the normal first four pitches of Dark Shadows and keep going.
Finish on a big ledge. With cairns. To get down you still have several hundred feet of easy 5th free soloing or adventurous/wandering/easy leading to the summit. Head a little up and a bit left to a left facing dihedral hand crack with a cairn (Oct. 2014) to start the last ascent to the summit.
From the summit, follow the ridgeline then cairns northwest until they take you to a descent gully. This led us to a three rappel gully (with a 70M) the last rappel was into a tree with a few inches of rope left. Followed by 15' of downclimbing the tree. I can't recommend this, however maybe another gully for a single 60M exists. This puts you in the wash upstream from the base of the climb. Hike it back to your packs.