Heart of Darkness
Avg: 2.5 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1100 ft, 11 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Richard Harrison, John Long, Lynn Hill (spring 1981)|
|Page Views:||2,474 total · 29/month|
|Shared By:||Jason shermer on Feb 1, 2011|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis climb is a continuation of dark shadows, chasing shadows, or edge dressing however you link it up. Heart of darkness starts above the pitch 4 traverse of dark shadows under a huge roof at a bolted anchor. climb though the roof (crux 5.11c) up crack systems on the buttress to the left of the final pitches of dark shadows and continue to the summit of mescalito.
This route im told gets less ascents in a year then prince of darkness (black velvet wall) on any given day serious ADVENTURE climb with a real deal decent grade IV with the decent!
P1-4. (340') Climb the first 2 pitches of Dark Shadows(5.7) the last 2 pitches of Dark Shadows Chasing Shadows(5.8+) or p3 of Chasing Shadows and p4 of Edge Dressing(5.10B)
P5. 150' 5.11c Move left across the huge roof (pin and a bolt) with a very bouldery move to reach a few better holds at the base of the wide cracked roof climb awkwardly through it (difficult with a pack on) continue then up the easy large crack which is crumbly and difficult to protect without larger cams bd 4,5,6 would be nice to have here. (we ran it out 80' because we only had one number 4 bd cam and nothing larger) continue up the crack to a blocky alcove looking left to see the anchor make a 25' traverse to it under what Handren calls a splitter crack
P6. 100' 5.8 Handren says climb the crack to the end then face climb up and slightly left to a ledge with an anchor. we traversed back right and up that crumbly wide crack continued up and headed left it seemed to have better pro
P7. 80' 5.9 a bulge (5.9) and steep discontinuous cracks (5.9) lead straight to a roof that extends across the the top of the wall, traverse right a bit to the further right most of two cracks in the roof build a belay under the roof. this pitch i remember being a bit heady with little bomber pro and the holds i remember breaking specifically a foot because i almost took an 80-90 foot ride.
P8. 40' 5.8 crank though the roof then up a 2" crack to a huge ledge
P9. 100' 5.7 follow the crack system up and slightly right
P10.100' 5.9 pull over a bulge and face climb up to a huge ledge with trees, cacti and other prickly things
there is a good summit photo op on the left where what seems to be the summit cairn
P11 250' Handren calls it 4th class but i thought it was hard and rotten we stayed roped up for these last 250'. we climbed some hollow pillar which was rotten and kinda sketch to the summit