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> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (10) Pine Creek…
> Mescalito
> Dark Shadows Wall
Peyote Power
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.4 from 101
votes
Routes in Dark Shadows Wall
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Chasing Shadows T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dark Shadows T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dark Shadows (Full) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dream Safari (5.10 or 5.11) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Edge Dressing T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Excellent Adventure T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Extra Credit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heart of Darkness T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Lost Voices T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Negro Blanco T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Parental Guidance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Peyote Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Risky Business T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Sandstone Sandwich T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Short Circuit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Slot Machine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 7 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 8,986 total · 43/month |
| Shared By: | meo on Nov 18, 2007 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Walk about 100 yards past Dark Shadows. Look for a nice terrace about 30' off the ground (a good landmark is a large, dark roof that is 50' above the terrace and 80' above the wash). Scramble up to this terrace to begin.
P1 (150', 5.7): Climb a grey slab under the large, dark roof. Move right using two grooves (tricky pro) and pass the roof on the right. There is an optional bolted belay here on a compact ledge just left of an obvious, large scrub oak. From this belay, move left to a varnished, right-facing corner and follow this as it turns into a hueco-lined weakness which can be climbed to a bolted anchor at the lower left end of an expansive white slab.
P2 (205', 5.9): From this belay DO NOT head directly up to a bolted anchor visible overhead; instead, traverse way right across the open slabs via ledges and low angle rock. You're aiming for a left-facing corner/flake with a thin crack. This is quite far to the right and above you, but clearly visible from the belay. Once there, climb this crack to a bolted anchor which is NOT visible from the previous belay. This is a long, rope-stretching pitch!
P3 (200', 5.9): Climb a steep featured flake above the belay and continue up a series of ledges to the base of the steep, black wall above. Wander up the right side of this face, ignoring a bolted anchor you may see off to the left about halfway up the face (though you can optionally belay here) and continue up the face above as the angle eases off. Keep climbing to another anchor. This is another long pitch.
P4 (90', 5.7): Step left from the belay and climb a seam up a wide open face, passing a bolt that protects a cruxy slab move, to reach a bolted anchor on a good ledge with a small tree.
P5 (90', 5.7): Climb the varnished cleft/chimney system passing an intermediate anchor and then up the face right of the chimney system to a bolted anchor.
P6 (90', 5.7): Step left and continue up the cleft/chimney, moving left at the top to an anchor on a sloping stance.
(Note: For expediency, one can easily link pitches 4 & 5, or pitches 5 & 6.)
P7 (130', 5.9): From the belay work up and left towards a smooth gully that is capped by a massive roof. Climb the wall right of the gully passing two or three bolts and on to an anchor at the top of the wall.
Rap the route with two ropes. If you employ some shenanigans on the top rappel and hit all anchors on the way down including the off-route anchors mentioned in the description on P2 & P3, you can rap with a single 70.
P1 (150', 5.7): Climb a grey slab under the large, dark roof. Move right using two grooves (tricky pro) and pass the roof on the right. There is an optional bolted belay here on a compact ledge just left of an obvious, large scrub oak. From this belay, move left to a varnished, right-facing corner and follow this as it turns into a hueco-lined weakness which can be climbed to a bolted anchor at the lower left end of an expansive white slab.
P2 (205', 5.9): From this belay DO NOT head directly up to a bolted anchor visible overhead; instead, traverse way right across the open slabs via ledges and low angle rock. You're aiming for a left-facing corner/flake with a thin crack. This is quite far to the right and above you, but clearly visible from the belay. Once there, climb this crack to a bolted anchor which is NOT visible from the previous belay. This is a long, rope-stretching pitch!
P3 (200', 5.9): Climb a steep featured flake above the belay and continue up a series of ledges to the base of the steep, black wall above. Wander up the right side of this face, ignoring a bolted anchor you may see off to the left about halfway up the face (though you can optionally belay here) and continue up the face above as the angle eases off. Keep climbing to another anchor. This is another long pitch.
P4 (90', 5.7): Step left from the belay and climb a seam up a wide open face, passing a bolt that protects a cruxy slab move, to reach a bolted anchor on a good ledge with a small tree.
P5 (90', 5.7): Climb the varnished cleft/chimney system passing an intermediate anchor and then up the face right of the chimney system to a bolted anchor.
P6 (90', 5.7): Step left and continue up the cleft/chimney, moving left at the top to an anchor on a sloping stance.
(Note: For expediency, one can easily link pitches 4 & 5, or pitches 5 & 6.)
P7 (130', 5.9): From the belay work up and left towards a smooth gully that is capped by a massive roof. Climb the wall right of the gully passing two or three bolts and on to an anchor at the top of the wall.
Rap the route with two ropes. If you employ some shenanigans on the top rappel and hit all anchors on the way down including the off-route anchors mentioned in the description on P2 & P3, you can rap with a single 70.
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