Avg: 2.3 from 65 votes
|Type:||Trad, 7 pitches|
|Page Views:||6,941 total · 41/month|
|Shared By:||meo on Nov 18, 2007|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen|
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
P1 (150', 5.7): Climb a grey slab under the large, dark roof. Move right using two grooves (tricky pro) and pass the roof on the right. There is an optional bolted belay here on a compact ledge just left of an obvious, large scrub oak. From this belay, move left to a varnished, right-facing corner and follow this as it turns into a hueco-lined weakness which can be climbed to a bolted anchor at the lower left end of an expansive white slab.
P2 (205', 5.9): From this belay DO NOT head directly up to a bolted anchor visible overhead; instead, traverse way right across the open slabs via ledges and low angle rock. You're aiming for a left-facing corner/flake with a thin crack. This is quite far to the right and above you, but clearly visible from the belay. Once there, climb this crack to a bolted anchor which is NOT visible from the previous belay. This is a long, rope-stretching pitch!
P3 (200', 5.9): Climb a steep featured flake above the belay and continue up a series of ledges to the base of the steep, black wall above. Wander up the right side of this face, ignoring a bolted anchor you may see off to the left about halfway up the face (though you can optionally belay here) and continue up the face above as the angle eases off. Keep climbing to another anchor. This is another long pitch.
P4 (90', 5.7): Step left from the belay and climb a seam up a wide open face, passing a bolt that protects a cruxy slab move, to reach a bolted anchor on a good ledge with a small tree.
P5 (90', 5.7): Climb the varnished cleft/chimney system passing an intermediate anchor and then up the face right of the chimney system to a bolted anchor.
P6 (90', 5.7): Step left and continue up the cleft/chimney, moving left at the top to an anchor on a sloping stance.
(Note: For expediency, one can easily link pitches 4 & 5, or pitches 5 & 6.)
P7 (130', 5.9): From the belay work up and left towards a smooth gully that is capped by a massive roof. Climb the wall right of the gully passing two or three bolts and on to an anchor at the top of the wall.
Rap the route with two ropes. If you employ some shenanigans on the top rappel and hit all anchors on the way down including the off-route anchors mentioned in the description on P2 & P3, you can rap with a single 70.