Avg: 2.2 from 36 votes
Routes in Mescalito
|Bed of Nails T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Black Widow Hollow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Bloodline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|C11H17NO3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Cat in the Hat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Cat in the Phat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Centerfold T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Chasing Shadows T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Cookie Monster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Crunchy Cat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13|
|Dark Shadows T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Dark Shadows (Full) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Deep Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Edge Dressing T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Excellent Adventure T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R|
|Extra Credit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Heart of Darkness T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Left of Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Mescalito - Original Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Mescalito - South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Negro Blanco T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Next Century, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|OB Button T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|OB Fist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Parental Guidance T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R|
|Pauligk Pillar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Pauline's Pentacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Peyote Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Pine Nuts T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Rabbit's Arete T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Risky Business T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Sandstone Sandwich T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Short Circuit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Slot Machine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Splitting Hares T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|This Ain't No Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Too Many Tantrums T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Unknown (Thing 1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Walker Spur, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Wasp, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Welcome to Red Rocks T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|When A Stranger Calls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Y2K T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 7 pitches|
|Page Views:||4,035 total, 33/month|
|Shared By:||meo on Nov 18, 2007|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionWalk about 100 yards past Dark Shadows. Look for a nice terrace about 30' off the ground (a good landmark is a large, dark roof that is 50' above the terrace and 80' above the wash). Scramble up to this terrace to begin.
P1 (150', 5.7): Climb a grey slab under the large, dark roof. Move right using two grooves (tricky pro) and pass the roof on the right. There is an optional bolted belay here on a compact ledge just left of an obvious, large scrub oak. From this belay, move left to a varnished, right-facing corner and follow this as it turns into a hueco-lined weakness which can be climbed to a bolted anchor at the lower left end of an expansive white slab.
P2 (205', 5.9): From this belay DO NOT head directly up to a bolted anchor visible overhead; instead, traverse way right across the open slabs via ledges and low angle rock. You're aiming for a left-facing corner/flake with a thin crack. This is quite far to the right and above you, but clearly visible from the belay. Once there, climb this crack to a bolted anchor which is NOT visible from the previous belay. This is a long, rope-stretching pitch!
P3 (200', 5.9): Climb a steep featured flake above the belay and continue up a series of ledges to the base of the steep, black wall above. Wander up the right side of this face, ignoring a bolted anchor you may see off to the left about halfway up the face (though you can optionally belay here) and continue up the face above as the angle eases off. Keep climbing to another anchor. This is another long pitch.
P4 (90', 5.7): Step left from the belay and climb a seam up a wide open face, passing a bolt that protects a cruxy slab move, to reach a bolted anchor on a good ledge with a small tree.
P5 (90', 5.7): Climb the varnished cleft/chimney system passing an intermediate anchor and then up the face right of the chimney system to a bolted anchor.
P6 (90', 5.7): Step left and continue up the cleft/chimney, moving left at the top to an anchor on a sloping stance.
(Note: For expediency, one can easily link pitches 4 & 5, or pitches 5 & 6.)
P7 (130', 5.9): From the belay work up and left towards a smooth gully that is capped by a massive roof. Climb the wall right of the gully passing two or three bolts and on to an anchor at the top of the wall.
Rap the route with two ropes. If you employ some shenanigans on the top rappel and hit all anchors on the way down including the off-route anchors mentioned in the description on P2 & P3, you can rap with a single 70.