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Routes in Mescalito

Bed of Nails T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Black Widow Hollow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bloodline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
C11H17NO3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Cat in the Hat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cat in the Phat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Centerfold T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Chasing Shadows T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cookie Monster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crunchy Cat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Dark Shadows T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Shadows (Full) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edge Dressing T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Excellent Adventure T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Extra Credit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heart of Darkness T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Left of Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Mescalito - Original Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mescalito - South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Negro Blanco T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Next Century, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
OB Button T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
OB Fist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Parental Guidance T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pauligk Pillar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pauline's Pentacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peyote Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pine Nuts T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rabbit's Arete T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Risky Business T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sandstone Sandwich T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Short Circuit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slot Machine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Splitting Hares T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
This Ain't No Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Too Many Tantrums T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown (Thing 1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Walker Spur, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wasp, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Welcome to Red Rocks T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
When A Stranger Calls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Y2K T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,439 total, 33/month
Shared By: Andrew Yasso on Apr 30, 2014
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

A really clean and fun corner found above Dark Shadows, Peyote Power, etc., on Perception Tower. I've eyed this corner a number of times while guiding and finally had someone (Chris Chicoskie) who was interested in checking it out with me. I've heard from numerous people that it has been climbed before (during AMGA Rock Guide Exams), so I'm not claiming a first ascent. Also, it isn't so much a route, as it is a variation on a route. I just think it would be nice to put a name to this worthwhile variation to top out on the Mescalito.

If you happen to have a little energy left and psyche after climbing whatever you climbed to get here, you should really go for the Extra Credit.

The climbing itself starts out as finger jams/laybacking for 10 feet before a key hold allows you to pull up and rest. From here, off fingers/thin hands/laybacking lead for another 15 feet before another nice rest. A quick hand jam or two will bring you back into 20 feet of off finger/thin hands, before easing off.

Location

This route is found on Perception Tower, which is the main ledge that many routes (most notably, Dark Shadows) finish on. When topping out, an obvious right facing corner is formed by a pillar leaning against the middle of the wall.

An anchor can be built above the corner just before topping out on the feature. From here, a second short pitch will lead East (towards Vegas) across the top of the pillar and down an easy slot/chimney to a nice ledge. By placing a directional, you can belay off your body with the pillar itself acting as the top rope anchor. Once all climbers are on the ledge, you can continue up and climber's left to connect back into the normal top-out for the Mescalito.

Protection

Whatever you used to get to the top of the route you climbed to get here will work. I placed gear to 2" while climbing, and found gear from 2" - 3" useful for the belay anchor.

Photos

That looks fucking sick, cabron. Nice find! May 1, 2014