Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Tupper & Greg Mayer - 1988
Page Views: 4,743 total · 31/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on May 10, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Parental Guidance is one of the best in Red Rocks. The first pitch alone is excellent, but the second is just as outrageous and not to be missed. These two can be linked together with careful runnering of gear thus eliminating a point of aid at the hanging belay.

P1 - 5.10d, 100': Takes a wandering path through a low roof and up a steep face to an extremely steep "Wheat Thin" style flake up the headwall. A final, wild step-across move accesses the anchor atop the first pitch of Lethal Weapon.

P2 - 5.12a, 100': Pinch nipples off the belay (crux), then step right and back left and gun it up a massive, hollow flake to a few opportunities for gear. Thin climbing (second crux) up beautiful varnish leads to a good foothold and the anchor.

This climb is aptly named. Also, care should be used to protect the fragile rock on much of the route - pull gently.

Protection

Draws and a bunch of small cams (nothing bigger than a 0.75 Camalot). Wires, no brass needed. One 60m is enough if you do two single-rope rappels - watch your ends.

The suspect hardware on P1 was replaced by the ASCA in May, 2007.
The suspect hardware on P2 was replaced by the ASCA in March, 2014.

Photos