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Routes in Mescalito

Bed of Nails T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Black Widow Hollow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bloodline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
C11H17NO3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Cat in the Hat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cat in the Phat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Centerfold T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Chasing Shadows T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cookie Monster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crunchy Cat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Dark Shadows T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Shadows (Full) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edge Dressing T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Excellent Adventure T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Extra Credit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heart of Darkness T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Left of Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Mescalito - Original Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mescalito - South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Negro Blanco T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Next Century, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
OB Button T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
OB Fist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Parental Guidance T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pauligk Pillar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pauline's Pentacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peyote Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pine Nuts T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rabbit's Arete T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Risky Business T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sandstone Sandwich T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Short Circuit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slot Machine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Splitting Hares T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
This Ain't No Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Too Many Tantrums T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown (Thing 1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Walker Spur, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wasp, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Welcome to Red Rocks T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
When A Stranger Calls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Y2K T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Tupper & Greg Mayer - 1988
Page Views: 3,696 total, 29/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on May 10, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Parental Guidance is one of the best in Red Rocks. The first pitch alone is excellent, but the second is just as outrageous and not to be missed. These two can be linked together with careful runnering of gear thus eliminating a point of aid at the hanging belay.

P1 - 5.10d, 100': Takes a wandering path through a low roof and up a steep face to an extremely steep "Wheat Thin" style flake up the headwall. A final, wild step-across move accesses the anchor atop the first pitch of Lethal Weapon.

P2 - 5.12a, 100': Pinch nipples off the belay (crux), then step right and back left and gun it up a massive, hollow flake to a few opportunities for gear. Thin climbing (second crux) up beautiful varnish leads to a good foothold and the anchor.

This climb is aptly named. Also, care should be used to protect the fragile rock on much of the route - pull gently.

Protection

Draws and a bunch of small cams (nothing bigger than a 0.75 Camalot). Wires, no brass needed. One 60m is enough if you do two single-rope rappels - watch your ends.

The suspect hardware on P1 was replaced by the ASCA in May, 2007.
The suspect hardware on P2 was replaced by the ASCA in March, 2014.

Photos

ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
 
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
 
Wow, this route climbs better than it looks from the ground. The first moves, although scary looking, aren't really that hard when you commit to them. I would say 10a/b. The first pitch has great movement and consistently unique climbing for Red Rocks. Stellar pitch on maybe the best wall in Red Rocks. Oct 14, 2014
Vlad S
  5.12a
Vlad S  
  5.12a
I was mindblown by the quality of climbing on both pitches. The 1st pitch is worth doing on it's own, but the 2nd has some of the best rock on the whole wall. The crux through the first few bolts of p. 2 is very hard (crimping single digit polka-dots), but it's not as bad as keeping it together on the sustained climbing between the last 2 bolts. Every hold is in that section is just a bit slopey and small, but with excellent friction. I ended up breaking a non-essential incut flake at the huge rest just below the crux. There are two more obvious sidepulls just like that left. Beware - they are fairly fragile. Because of the sustained nature of the 2nd pitch, I wouldn't combine the pitches. Especially since the hardest bit is very balancey climbing comes after 55 m. Such a stellar route! Apr 23, 2014
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
  5.10 PG13
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
  5.10 PG13
One of the best 5.10 pitches I've done at Red Rocks! If you're sneaky you can protect the 10a moves to the first bolt. From the pillar, step up just a foot or two using a bomber incut left hand and plug a small cam (0.3 C4) behind a flake to your left that is more solid than it looks. Not quite bomber, but you only need this piece to protect one move up and to the right, where you can plug one or two small cams (C3's) under the small roof before you're fully committed to the roof (i.e. you can still back off easily if you get spooked). Once you've got those cams under the roof you're good to go - make another move right, grab the thin, fragile crimper below the roof, clip the bolt and go. Once you've clipped the first bolt, the rest of the route is very well protected. Apr 13, 2013
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10
Stick clip first bolt and its not runnout. Clean thin moves on small holds (bolted) to great gear. The lower flake seems pretty bomber and likely would hold short fall on gear. The upper flake has a nice bolt to protect it so needs no gear. Felt safer than most of the other routes in this grade on the wall. Mar 18, 2013
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
This was a really good route that seemed more like PG-13 once you clip the first bolt. Getting up to the first bolt felt 10a-ish and it seemed much easier coming in from the left and avoiding that green Alien placement all together. Jun 12, 2012