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Routes in Mescalito

Bed of Nails T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Black Widow Hollow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bloodline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
C11H17NO3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Cat in the Hat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cat in the Phat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Centerfold T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Chasing Shadows T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cookie Monster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crunchy Cat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Dark Shadows T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Shadows (Full) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Space T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Edge Dressing T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Excellent Adventure T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Extra Credit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heart of Darkness T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Left of Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Mescalito - Original Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mescalito - South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Negro Blanco T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Next Century, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
OB Button T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
OB Fist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Parental Guidance T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pauligk Pillar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pauline's Pentacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peyote Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pine Nuts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rabbit's Arete T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Risky Business T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sandstone Sandwich T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Short Circuit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slot Machine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Splitting Hares T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
This Ain't No Disco T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Too Many Tantrums T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown (Thing 1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Walker Spur, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wasp, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Welcome to Red Rocks T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
When A Stranger Calls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Y2K T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad
FA: Bob Conz, Sal Mamusia- July 1990
Page Views: 3,709 total · 21/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Mar 12, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route start as for Dark shadows up the 5.5 slab past 2 bolts, when you reach the left angling ramp of DS head right towards a thin, steep, crack up a varnished face.

The climbing is similiar to the second pitch of Risky business, as is the pro. There is more gear then you think and it always shows up when you need it.

A very good route.

Descent: Rap with 2 ropes.

Protection

SR include RP's and maybe 2 sets of small cams

Photos

Cpn Dunsel
  5.10a
Cpn Dunsel  
  5.10a
Great route that rewards small fingers at the crux "slot". Good gear, no reason to get hurt, but some spicy moves above the crux make for a good heart pumper. A lesser-gem that is a must-do for the 5.10 Red Rock leader. Only one rope is needed to get down. One rap to the first pitch anchor on Shadows then another short rtap into the stream..... Mar 5, 2005
MJW
Boise, ID
  5.10a/b
MJW   Boise, ID
  5.10a/b
This is a good one! Good holds and stances appear when in doubt. I used small nuts and tcu's on the headwall part. Didn't need the brass. Oct 27, 2008
GabeO
New Haven, CT
  5.10c PG13
GabeO   New Haven, CT
  5.10c PG13
Definitely got my heart pumping! And I definitely was happy to have my brassies along. May 10, 2011
GabeO
New Haven, CT
  5.10c PG13
GabeO   New Haven, CT
  5.10c PG13
Oh, and calling this a finger crack, or as the Handren guide says, a "tips crack" is just ridiculous. Ther is like *one* (maybe two) finger locks. It's a seam/crack for protection, and 99.99% face climbing. May 10, 2011
Mitch Musci
Estes Park, CO
Mitch Musci   Estes Park, CO
This is a wonderful pitch with an emphasis on skillful rp placements. I brought dmm offset brassies 1-5, and bd micronuts 2-5, and placed most of them. It seemed like half the placements were bomber, while the other half were decent. A fairly heady lead on sandstone...granted, the stone on this pitch is high quality. The movement is excellent and sustained at the grade, with only a couple of good rests. A very memorable climb! Oct 19, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10
I was very happy to have brass and microcams for this seam with occasional thin crack moves. Think I placed 10 on the pitch and glad for everyone. The crux moves were right off the smallest gear. Mar 18, 2013
4/15/2017 ....The Southen Neveda Climbers Coalition with support from ASCA preformed some route maintenance on Slot Machine. Both old anchor bolts were removed and replaced with Powers SS 1/2 x 2 3/4, 5 Piece Bolts and ASCA Hangers. Apr 15, 2017

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