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Routes in Dark Shadows Wall

Chasing Shadows T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Shadows T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Shadows (Full) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edge Dressing T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Excellent Adventure T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Extra Credit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heart of Darkness T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Negro Blanco T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Parental Guidance T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Peyote Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Risky Business T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sandstone Sandwich T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Short Circuit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slot Machine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Mike Ward & Nick Nordblom - 1988
Page Views: 775 total · 10/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 12, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Begin just right of Parental Guidance on a long block forming a ledge at the base of the wall. Mantle up to an excellent small TCU placement, then make a difficult move past this to a stance. A crucial #1 Camalot overhead can be placed (height dependent) before pulling up into the undercling allows clipping of the first of five bolts. Continue upwards with a thin high-step/mantle, and finally thin but positive edges to the anchor.

This route previously featured a fixed pin which has been gone for some time now. Because the #1 Camalot is behind a semi-hollow flake and shorter climbers may not even be able to place this cam to begin with, I believe this route *could* be R-rated. If you're tall enough, and if the cam holds, then it's totally G-rated.

Protection

0.3 Camalot, #1 Camalot, 5 bolts, bolted anchor.

Photos

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Vlad S
  5.11c
Vlad S  
  5.11c
This route is pretty scary between a very tricky start and some not-so-solid rock up high. At 5'8" I was just barely able to make the #1 placement and then do the very reachy crux move. Also felt a lot harder than 11b. I placed a 0 and 00 C3 off the ground followed by the #1 camalot. After that it's fully bolted. Apr 23, 2014
Dr Williams
AUSTIN, TX
  5.11b
Dr Williams   AUSTIN, TX
  5.11b
Great route! Begins at the top of a rock and moves up a very defined line. It then gets to the first crux at an area on the face that requires some balancing moves and a right foot on a small crescent. I am 5'8" and I could not reach up to the overhanging flake from this crescent alone. So I had to bump the left foot up onto the beginning of the flake. From there, I was able to get to the overhanging flake and move up the face on some tenuous foot holds and crimps, also using the edge of the flake to the right. The rest of the climb is well bolted and moves up to the right and has 2 or 3 additional crux areas, each as difficult as the first crux. The route then moves up to the left and back up to right to the anchors. I felt it was very hard for the grade. I felt this was harder than the other 5.11's in the immediate vicinity. I felt it was a solid 5.11c. Oct 26, 2014

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