Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Mike Ward & Nick Nordblom - 1988
Page Views: 1,807 total · 13/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 12, 2012
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Begin just right of Parental Guidance on a long block forming a ledge at the base of the wall. Mantle up to an excellent small TCU placement, then make a difficult move past this to a stance. A crucial #1 Camalot overhead can be placed (height dependent) before pulling up into the undercling allows clipping of the first of five bolts. Continue upwards with a thin high-step/mantle, and finally thin but positive edges to the anchor.

This route previously featured a fixed pin which has been gone for some time now. Because the #1 Camalot is behind a semi-hollow flake and shorter climbers may not even be able to place this cam to begin with, I believe this route *could* be R-rated. If you're tall enough, and if the cam holds, then it's totally G-rated.

Protection Suggest change

0.3 Camalot, #1 Camalot, 5 bolts, bolted anchor.


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