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Routes in Dark Shadows Wall

Chasing Shadows T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Shadows T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Shadows (Full) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edge Dressing T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Excellent Adventure T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Extra Credit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heart of Darkness T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Negro Blanco T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Parental Guidance T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Peyote Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Risky Business T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sandstone Sandwich T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Short Circuit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slot Machine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,508 total · 9/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 4, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Sandstone Sandwich is a mostly bolted pitch between Excellent Adventure (shares anchors with it) and Dark Shadows. See Excellent Adventure's description for more details.

Start from the boulder where Dark Shadows starts and then traverse in on a ledge above the pool. Climb up the water polished slab past two modern bolts to an overlap/roof. Place gear here and pull onto the steep, beautiful face above. Head up past more bolts, generally trending to the left, to an anchor.

Protection

A bunch of quickdraws and a very light rack.

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
In November there was a small patch of land just below the start of this route, large enough for a rope bag & belay. Getting off the ground was a bit tricky as the feet were slick and sloper edges for the initial launch then eased as you progress upward.

The route provided a different feel after the horizontal break midway and required several neat moves.

I liked it, I thought it was fun and right on for the grade. Then again, I was just following. Perhaps a bit heady on the lower part if leading.

Use 2 ropes to rap. You can get down using 1 70m and two raps but getting to the station to the climbers left and under the roof is a bit tricky.

~Susan Nov 19, 2007
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
The climbing is pretty easy on the runout slab. The serious part is reaching the first bolt on the head wall. You have to do some funky mid 5.10 moves with the potential for a swinging 25ft fall onto the slabs below. Oct 26, 2009
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c PG13
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10c PG13
Slab at the start (pretty easy) is the only runnout section. Above that you get great cams then bolts then gear again. Brilliant face climbing on a steep plated face. Mar 18, 2013
This route has some new bolts. Sep 14, 2018

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