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Routes in South Face
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A Nasty Gash T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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A Song & A Prayer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Ain't no Saint T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crocodile Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hot Fudge Thursday T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Joanne of Arch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jubilant Song T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Marion's Melody T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slabotomy T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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St. Stephen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Swinging the Other Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thriller T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Western Swing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Windy Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Joe Herbst and Terry Schultz, 1971 |
| Page Views: | 35,811 total · 160/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Faust on Oct 31, 2004 · Updates |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Approach:As for Black Velvet Canyon, turn north off Highway 160 onto a dirt road, 4.6 miles west of the intersection with Highway 159. Take the obvious left turn BEFORE the left turn that leads to Black Velvet. Continue down this road, turning right at a distinctive 4-way intersection. Drive as close to the canyon as you are comfortable. From the parking area, hike west into the canyon, following burro trails where possible and cross-country where not. Stay on the north (right) side of the wash, aiming for a notch up-canyon on the right side. The trail becomes more distinct up a steep hillside towards this notch, left of an deep canyon. March up this steep section to a flat area known as the Football Field. From here the southface of Windy Peak is obvious. Hike on up a couple hundred more feet to the base of the face. See photo. The approach is considered strenuous, and will take an hour or more.
Climb:(P1) Follow an easy crack (the left of two obvious cracks) up a short pitch to a ledge with a bush.
(P2) Continue up the crack into a wide chimney full of loose blocks, belay where possible.
(P3) Continue up and right and find a belay below the left side of the huge roof.
(P4) Traverse right under the roof, belaying in a small corner with huge loose blocks.
(P5) Surmount the roof (5.8) and continue up easier ground for a short distance to belay in a gully.
(P6) Continue into the gully, do some chimney moves, then move right into a water streak. Balancy moves past a bolt lead to easier ground, step left to a bush to belay.
(P7) Step back right into the water streak, and continue up difficult 5.8 moves onto easier ground. Climb a corner to a belay notch.
(P8) A 5th class move leads to 4th class slab and the summit of Windy Peak
Descent:Hike west along the summit ridge and then drop into a gully that leads back south. Depending on your instinct and luck, moderate bushwacking may be in order. Hike down the gully until given a chance to sidehill left. You should end up right at your packs.
There is an entire chapter about this route in Red Rock Odyssey
Climb:(P1) Follow an easy crack (the left of two obvious cracks) up a short pitch to a ledge with a bush.
(P2) Continue up the crack into a wide chimney full of loose blocks, belay where possible.
(P3) Continue up and right and find a belay below the left side of the huge roof.
(P4) Traverse right under the roof, belaying in a small corner with huge loose blocks.
(P5) Surmount the roof (5.8) and continue up easier ground for a short distance to belay in a gully.
(P6) Continue into the gully, do some chimney moves, then move right into a water streak. Balancy moves past a bolt lead to easier ground, step left to a bush to belay.
(P7) Step back right into the water streak, and continue up difficult 5.8 moves onto easier ground. Climb a corner to a belay notch.
(P8) A 5th class move leads to 4th class slab and the summit of Windy Peak
Descent:Hike west along the summit ridge and then drop into a gully that leads back south. Depending on your instinct and luck, moderate bushwacking may be in order. Hike down the gully until given a chance to sidehill left. You should end up right at your packs.
There is an entire chapter about this route in Red Rock Odyssey
Protection
Standard rack up to #3 Camalot.
Some closer to their limit on this one may want to bring a #4 C4, as highlighted in comments such as (last one made here) ...
- Wide gear is getting lighter and you'll apprecicate it on pitch 2.
- ... don't bother to bring anything larger than a #4 Camalot- one will suffice.
- P2 ... is where your #4(s) will provide a restful breath.
- Follower's with a weak left high-step will appreciate a #4 placed just after the leader gets both feet above the P5 roof.
Photos
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