Type: Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Joe Herbst and Terry Schultz, 1971
Page Views: 35,811 total · 160/month
Shared By: Matt Faust on Oct 31, 2004 · Updates
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


Approach:As for Black Velvet Canyon, turn north off Highway 160 onto a dirt road, 4.6 miles west of the intersection with Highway 159. Take the obvious left turn BEFORE the left turn that leads to Black Velvet. Continue down this road, turning right at a distinctive 4-way intersection. Drive as close to the canyon as you are comfortable. From the parking area, hike west into the canyon, following burro trails where possible and cross-country where not. Stay on the north (right) side of the wash, aiming for a notch up-canyon on the right side. The trail becomes more distinct up a steep hillside towards this notch, left of an deep canyon. March up this steep section to a flat area known as the Football Field. From here the southface of Windy Peak is obvious. Hike on up a couple hundred more feet to the base of the face. See photo. The approach is considered strenuous, and will take an hour or more.

Climb:(P1) Follow an easy crack (the left of two obvious cracks) up a short pitch to a ledge with a bush.

(P2) Continue up the crack into a wide chimney full of loose blocks, belay where possible.

(P3) Continue up and right and find a belay below the left side of the huge roof.

(P4) Traverse right under the roof, belaying in a small corner with huge loose blocks.

(P5) Surmount the roof (5.8) and continue up easier ground for a short distance to belay in a gully.

(P6) Continue into the gully, do some chimney moves, then move right into a water streak. Balancy moves past a bolt lead to easier ground, step left to a bush to belay.

(P7) Step back right into the water streak, and continue up difficult 5.8 moves onto easier ground. Climb a corner to a belay notch.

(P8) A 5th class move leads to 4th class slab and the summit of Windy Peak

Descent:Hike west along the summit ridge and then drop into a gully that leads back south. Depending on your instinct and luck, moderate bushwacking may be in order. Hike down the gully until given a chance to sidehill left. You should end up right at your packs.

There is an entire chapter about this route in Red Rock Odyssey


Standard rack up to #3 Camalot.

Some closer to their limit on this one may want to bring a #4 C4, as highlighted in comments such as (last one made here) ...

  • Wide gear is getting lighter and you'll apprecicate it on pitch 2.
  • ... don't bother to bring anything larger than a #4 Camalot- one will suffice.
  • P2 ... is where your #4(s) will provide a restful breath.
  • Follower's with a weak left high-step will appreciate a #4 placed just after the leader gets both feet above the P5 roof.