Avg: 1.4 from 12 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Jorge and Joanne Urioste, 1977|
|Page Views:||2,579 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Matt Faust on Feb 28, 2004|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionApproach:As for Black Velvet Canyon, turn north off Highway 160 onto a dirt road, 4.6 miles west of the intersection with Highway 159. Take the (first?) obvious left turn (the turn before the one to BVC). Continue down this road, turning right at a distinctive 4-way intersection. Drive as close to the canyon as you are comfortable (the road gets a little rough). From the parking area, hike west into the canyon, following burro trails where possible and cross-country where not. Stay on the north (right) side of the wash, aiming for a notch up-canyon on the right side. The trail becomes more distinct up a steep hillside towards this notch, left of an deep canyon. March up this steep section to a flat area known as the Football Field. From here the southface of Windy Peak is obvious. Hike on up a couple hundred more feet to the base of the face. (See photo.) The approach is considered strenuous, and will take an hour or more.
(P1) Follow a crack up to a ledge. Either traverse right into the corner as a short, 4th class pitch or just move the belay right.
(P2) Climb up the squeeze chimney (you can probably walk a #4 cam), then exit out right onto the face. Climb the face belaying on a small ledge.
(P3-4) Continue up the face, moving right back into the corner. Continue up the corner until you can pull the roof and join with Jubilant Song
(P5) Continue into the gully, do some chimney moves, then move right into a water streak. Balancy moves past a bolt lead to easier ground, step left to a bush to belay.
(P6) Step back right into the water streak, and continue up difficult 5.8 moves onto easier ground. Climb a corner to a belay notch.
(P7) A 5th class move leads to 4th class slab and the summit of Windy Peak
Descent:Hike west along the summit ridge and then drop into a gully that leads back south. Depending on your instinct and luck, moderate bushwacking may be in order. Hike down the gully until given a chance to sidehill left. You should end up right at your packs.