Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jorge and Joanne Urioste, 1977
Page Views: 4,356 total · 18/month
Shared By: Matt Faust on Feb 28, 2004
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Approach:As for Black Velvet Canyon, turn north off Highway 160 onto a dirt road, 4.6 miles west of the intersection with Highway 159. Take the (first?) obvious left turn (the turn before the one to BVC). Continue down this road, turning right at a distinctive 4-way intersection. Drive as close to the canyon as you are comfortable (the road gets a little rough). From the parking area, hike west into the canyon, following burro trails where possible and cross-country where not. Stay on the north (right) side of the wash, aiming for a notch up-canyon on the right side. The trail becomes more distinct up a steep hillside towards this notch, left of an deep canyon. March up this steep section to a flat area known as the Football Field. From here the southface of Windy Peak is obvious. Hike on up a couple hundred more feet to the base of the face. (See photo.) The approach is considered strenuous, and will take an hour or more.

(P1) Follow a crack up to a ledge. Either traverse right into the corner as a short, 4th class pitch or just move the belay right.

(P2) Climb up the squeeze chimney (you can probably walk a #4 cam), then exit out right onto the face. Climb the face belaying on a small ledge.

(P3-4) Continue up the face, moving right back into the corner. Continue up the corner until you can pull the roof and join with Jubilant Song

(P5) Continue into the gully, do some chimney moves, then move right into a water streak. Balancy moves past a bolt lead to easier ground, step left to a bush to belay.

(P6) Step back right into the water streak, and continue up difficult 5.8 moves onto easier ground. Climb a corner to a belay notch.

(P7) A 5th class move leads to 4th class slab and the summit of Windy Peak

Descent:Hike west along the summit ridge and then drop into a gully that leads back south. Depending on your instinct and luck, moderate bushwacking may be in order. Hike down the gully until given a chance to sidehill left. You should end up right at your packs.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack up to #4 Camalot