A Song & A Prayer
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 900 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Larry DeAngelo, John Wilder|
|Page Views:||1,478 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||John Wilder on Feb 26, 2005|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThe south face of Windy Peak is ripe with possible lines, many of them variations to existing lines. This route was spotted by Larry as a possible independent line to the summit via some distinct features that move up the left side of the face, just left of Jubilant Song. After some interesting route finding and some exciting leads, we managed to finish the route and now offer it to those who want some good adventure. Although loose rock is present, the climbing is good and protection is decent.
Pitch 1) Start just right of Jubilant Song on the face and head up moderate rock to the large bushy belay ledge.
Pitch 2) Continue straight up a thin crack splitting the narrow facet of rock about 15 feet to the right of the main Jubilant Song dihedral. Belay in a small alcove just to the right of the seond belay on Jubilant Song.
Pitch 3) It is worthwhile to move the belay up to a better position. Climb up a few feet, then exit left out of the easy chimney to a small belay stance. Number 4 Camalot gives a good anchor in the crack.
Pitch 4) The headwall above is split by a noticeable thin crack going right up the middle of the face. Another thin crack lies a few feet to left and angles back to the middle of the face. The route goes first up, then left to the second crack, then up and right, following the pro to a hanging belay stance a short distance below a dihedral.
Pitch 5) Make a few moves up the soft white rock of the dihedral, then exit right as soon as possible to gain the crack in the dark varnished rock. This exposed position is directly above the huge Jubilant Song roof. When the climbing becomes easy, continue up over large blocks to an alcove. The huge Bandstand Ledge is 30 feet higher over moderate rock.
Pitch 6) Scramble up easy ground until you can make a 4th class switchback to the right and belay on the ledges above. Another 30 feet of third class allow you to exit right onto the summit plateau.