All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Windy Peak > S Face

Marion's Melody

Name: Marion's Melody
Rating: 1.6

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in South Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Nasty Gash T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	A Song & A Prayer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Ain't no Saint T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Crocodile Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hot Fudge Thursday T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Joanne of Arch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Jubilant Song T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Marion's Melody T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Slabotomy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	St. Stephen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Swinging the Other Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Thriller T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Western Swing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Windy Corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Type:	Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 7 pitches, Grade III
GPS:	36.0192, -115.47011
FA:	George Urioste et al., 2005
Page Views:	1,729 total · 7/month
Shared By:	Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004 · Updates
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

Immediately to the left of Jubilant Song, there are a few bolts on the varnished face. Two pitches up this face lead to a good ledge at the base of a left-facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral to a good stance at its top. The fourth pitch steps left, then climbs a corner past some protection bolts. (For many years this was the route's high-point, the result of a blizzard-induced epic retreat.) The fifth pitch goes up, then right, eventually following a small crack to to a hanging stance (on gear) beneath an overhanging headwall. Climb the short headwall (5.9), then follow easy climbing on the path of least resistance for a pitch or two to the top of the wall.