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Routes in South Face

A Nasty Gash T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Song & A Prayer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Crocodile Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hot Fudge Thursday T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joanne of Arch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jubilant Song T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marion's Melody T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slabotomy T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
St. Stephen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swinging the Other Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thriller T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Western Swing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Windy Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 700 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: George Urioste and others
Page Views: 630 total · 4/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Immediately to the left of Jubilant Song, there are a few bolts on the varnished face. Two pitches up this face lead to a good ledge at the base of a left-facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral to a good stance at its top. The fourth pitch steps left, then climbs a corner past some protection bolts. (For many years this was the route's high-point, the result of a blizzard-induced epic retreat.) The fifth pitch goes up, then right, eventually following a small crack to to a hanging stance (on gear) beneath an overhanging headwall. Climb the short headwall (5.9), then follow easy climbing on the path of least resistance for a pitch or two to the top of the wall.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

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Bruce Lacroix
Sparks, NV
 
Bruce Lacroix   Sparks, NV
 
P1 105', mixed, 2 bolt anchor. P2, 105', trad, 2 bolt anchor.
P3 110', trad, 2 bolt anchor. P4 30', trad, 2 bolt anchor. P5, P6, P7, not sure we took the same line as Larry.
The first 3 pitches are a good 5.7 and you can rappel from here. Mar 15, 2009

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