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Routes in South Face

A Nasty Gash T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Song & A Prayer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Crocodile Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hot Fudge Thursday T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joanne of Arch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jubilant Song T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marion's Melody T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slabotomy T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
St. Stephen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swinging the Other Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thriller T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Western Swing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Windy Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: George Urioste and others
Page Views: 571 total, 4/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Immediately to the left of Jubilant Song, there are a few bolts on the varnished face. Two pitches up this face lead to a good ledge at the base of a left-facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral to a good stance at its top. The fourth pitch steps left, then climbs a corner past some protection bolts. (For many years this was the route's high-point, the result of a blizzard-induced epic retreat.) The fifth pitch goes up, then right, eventually following a small crack to to a hanging stance (on gear) beneath an overhanging headwall. Climb the short headwall (5.9), then follow easy climbing on the path of least resistance for a pitch or two to the top of the wall.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

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brucelacroix
Portland, OR.
 
brucelacroix   Portland, OR.
 
P1 105', mixed, 2 bolt anchor. P2, 105', trad, 2 bolt anchor.
P3 110', trad, 2 bolt anchor. P4 30', trad, 2 bolt anchor. P5, P6, P7, not sure we took the same line as Larry.
The first 3 pitches are a good 5.7 and you can rappel from here. Mar 15, 2009