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Marion's Melody

5.9, Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 7 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 1.6 from 5 votes
FA: George Urioste et al., 2005
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (18) Windy Peak > S Face
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description

Immediately to the left of Jubilant Song, there are a few bolts on the varnished face. Two pitches up this face lead to a good ledge at the base of a left-facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral to a good stance at its top. The fourth pitch steps left, then climbs a corner past some protection bolts. (For many years this was the route's high-point, the result of a blizzard-induced epic retreat.) The fifth pitch goes up, then right, eventually following a small crack to to a hanging stance (on gear) beneath an overhanging headwall. Climb the short headwall (5.9), then follow easy climbing on the path of least resistance for a pitch or two to the top of the wall.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

George on the summit following the FA
[Hide Photo] George on the summit following the FA
Pitch 3
[Hide Photo] Pitch 3
The Start of Marion's Melody
[Hide Photo] The Start of Marion's Melody
The top of the pitch 4 corner
[Hide Photo] The top of the pitch 4 corner
Pitch 2
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2
The top part of Marion's Melody.  The pitch 4 corner in in the lower right, and the circle indicates upper headwall.
[Hide Photo] The top part of Marion's Melody. The pitch 4 corner in in the lower right, and the circle indicates upper headwall.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bruce Lacroix
Las Vegas, NV
 
[Hide Comment] P1 105', mixed, 2 bolt anchor. P2, 105', trad, 2 bolt anchor.
P3 110', trad, 2 bolt anchor. P4 30', trad, 2 bolt anchor. P5, P6, P7, not sure we took the same line as Larry.
The first 3 pitches are a good 5.7 and you can rappel from here. Mar 15, 2009