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Marion's Melody
5.9,
Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 7 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 1.6 from 5
votes
FA: George Urioste et al., 2005
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (18) Windy Peak
> S Face
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Immediately to the left of Jubilant Song, there are a few bolts on the varnished face. Two pitches up this face lead to a good ledge at the base of a left-facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral to a good stance at its top. The fourth pitch steps left, then climbs a corner past some protection bolts. (For many years this was the route's high-point, the result of a blizzard-induced epic retreat.) The fifth pitch goes up, then right, eventually following a small crack to to a hanging stance (on gear) beneath an overhanging headwall. Climb the short headwall (5.9), then follow easy climbing on the path of least resistance for a pitch or two to the top of the wall.
Protection
Standard rack
[Hide Photo] The top part of Marion's Melody. The pitch 4 corner in in the lower right, and the circle indicates upper headwall.
Las Vegas, NV
P3 110', trad, 2 bolt anchor. P4 30', trad, 2 bolt anchor. P5, P6, P7, not sure we took the same line as Larry.
The first 3 pitches are a good 5.7 and you can rappel from here. Mar 15, 2009